Friday, December 31, 2010

Split Ends: What causes them & How to Avoid Them

What are Split Ends and How Do I Get Rid of Them?
Split ends are not completely avoidable, BUT there are ways to prevent them and keep these pesky problems to a minimum. Let me first say, there is NO WAY TO REPAIR split ends. Once the cuticles and cortex are damaged on that strand, there is no lotion, potion, or oil that can repair he split. The only way to rid your hair of split ends is to cut them completely off. If you are trimming or cutting your hair the most important thing you can do to start things off right is to purchase a good pair of hair cutting shears. Please do not use regular household scissors, or the $3.00 pair you purchased form the corner beauty supply. Scissors that are not sufficiently sharp will only cause more split ends! Also remember you can't keep using the same shears for 4 years and expect those to have the same sharpness as the day you purchased them.  Take the time to invest in a good pair and replace them regularly.

Split ends occur when the protective cuticle of the hair is destroyed at the end of the hair. The hair will then split into two or more strands. Keep in mind that splits can occur anywhere along the hair shaft. Once it splits you must cut the damaged part off as the split can continue all the way up the shaft causing further damage. 


What Do Split Ends Look Like?






Preventing Split ends


The ends of your hair are the oldest, and dryer parts of your hair. This is why splits typically occur here. Simply put DRY HAIR BREAKS. This is why moisturizing your hair daily, paying close attention to the ends and sealing the ends with oil is one of most important measures you can take to avoid split ends.  I have minimal splits now because I have removed heat from my hair equation altogether.  Heat drys out your hair.  If you are relaxed and you are using heat on a regular basis you are abusing your hair... your goal of long hair will only be a dream.  I thought because my hair was healthy looking, that is was healthy...but my hair would not grow past shoulder length.  I only used direct heat once a week and of course before my journey adding moisture was a no no because it would make my hair draw up and I would have to re-set it and flat iron again.  So heat plus no moisture, constant manipulation from combing equaled constant split ends for me.  I can remember getting my hair trimmed at the salon and seeing new splits a day later! Below is a list of Do's to preserve those precious ends. The longer you can keep your ends in tact the more length you will retain, and the longer your locks will flow.

To Prevent Split Ends...DO

- Deep Condition (with heat and or a plastic cap) hair often to provide each strand with nourishment and moisture.

- Moisturize your hair daily and lightly seal it with oil to provide a barrier for hair and give it improved elasticity. This will help it to stretch under stress put on hair rather than split and break. Split ends sometimes occur because the protective hair oils do not reach the end of the hair shaft, causing it to split. African American hair is naturally dryer because of the curly nature of our hair. The sebum (oils produced naturally by our bodies) does not easily travel down to the end of the hair shaft which creates much dryer ends for African American hair.

- Trim your hair regularly to prevent splits from traveling up the shaft and stopping future splits before they start.

- Apply a high quality conditioner after shampooing or cleaning scalp to close and seal those raised cuticles and lock moisture into each strand.

- Avoid applying heat to hair at all costs.  I would only apply direct heat for special occasion while on your journey.  You can ease back into heated styles a little more often after you have achieved your goal length. Remember that heat (especially direct heat i.e flat irons, curling irons, blow dryers) will rearrange protein bonds and remove moisture from the hair strands which can cause splitting.

- When using heat on your hair be sure to apply a heat protectant to provide a buffer between your hair and the heat.

- Make sure your moisture protein balance is in check

- Wear protective styles as often as possible. This will help protect those precious ends from exposure to rubbing against cloths, the dry air, and other natural elements which can cause ends to split.

- Minimize combing and manipulating your hair.

Regimen Updated

Below is my updated Regimen with a list of products I alternate for each step. Really as long as you are putting moisture into the hair daily, sealing with an oil to lock that moisture in, and keeping your scalp clean, you can use what ever products work best for their hair (But please avoid mineral oils,  and petroleum based products as they can suffocate the hair and scalp, lock out moisture and inhibit hair growth). You can use an wide range of products to alternate, or you can choose a minimal amount of products. They key is doing what works best for your hair. If you don't have time to cleanse often, you may not want to apply too many oils and other products as often to avoid build up.  On the other hand if you clean your hair two or three times a weeks because you have a naturally oily scalp, then extra conditioning and keeping oils on those ends is key to avoiding breakage. I have also posted more before and after shots of my 6 month hair journey update. Stay consistant in your regimen and you WILL see results! Happy growing :)

- Wash with a natural Shampoo one a week (Sunday): Bee Mine Ayurvedic Bar or Shea Moisture's Coconut & Hibiscus. 

- Co Wash Once a week (Wed) with a moisturizing conditioner: Suave Professionals Shea & Almond Conditioner, Herbal Essences Hello Hydration, or Bee Mine Bee Lovely Moisturizing Conditioner  

-Deep Condition 2x a week (Wed & Sun after my co wash or shampoo): Spiral Solutions Deeply Decadent Conditioning treatment, Shea Moisture's Deep Conditioning mask, Darcy's Botanicals Deep Conditioning Mask

- Light/ Medium Protein Treatments done as needed, or once a month minimum: Aphogee 2 minute reconstructor ( NOT the 2 step hard protein treatment), Coppola's Keratin Deep Conditioning treatment, or Spiral Solutions Repairing Protein treatment. 

- Leave Ins: Jane Carter Solution Revitalizing Leave In conditioner ( Spritz 2x a day to keep moisture on my strands.

- I use a light protein leave in spray (Spiral Solutions Strength & shine or Aphogee Green Tea & Keratin Leave In...applied after my shampoos once a week

- Seal hair nightly with natural oils to lock in moisture from conditioners: Carol's Daughter Hair Balm (my new Fav), Extra Virgin Coconut oil, Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Carol's Daughter's Lisa's Hair Elixer or Jamaician Black Castor Oil.
- Clarify once a month to remove build up: Bee Mine Purity Bar, Giovanni 50:50 Hydrating Clarifying Shampoo.

- I air dry 99% of the time and wear my hair in a bun or a phony pony.  I will be on a no heat diet and wear protective styles until i have reached Bra strap length. 

- Trim/ Dust about 1/4 inch after every relaxer.  I don't require a lot of trimming because I have worn a protective bun or phony pony for everyday of my journey.  I have used heat only once the past 6 months and this has allowed me to retain so much length and have very little breakage.

More Update Pics 6 months of Progress
June 2010
December 2010  (sorry, I did not comb out hair before this shot)



June 2010
December 2010




Tuesday, December 28, 2010

Six Month Hair Journey Update

JUNE 2010
DECEMBER 2010

I cannot believe how much time has passed since I started my HHJ.  I started in May/June 2010 and here we are in December. I have crossed the six month marker and now its time to witness the RESULTS!  I am sure many of you will start your journey and doubt that you are really getting the results you need to reach your hair length goals.  This why I encourage you to track your journey with photographs!  You can see and compare your progress, and the effectiveness of your regimen. Use your progress photos as a guide, motivation, and diary for your HHJ. If you dont see the proof in your photos, its possible you need to revisit the components of your regimen, and look at what products you are using.  It is so important to listen to your hair and give it what it needs. For the past month or so, I began to experience some breakage. In my head I was convinced I was using enough moisture, but the winter weather was telling my hair otherwise, so I tweaked a few things, and now the breakage is at bay.  At one point I began to skip my second deep conditioning treatment some weeks, skip sealing and only spritz moisture on to my hair and these small changes, produced negative results (breakage).  So I back tracked figured out what I was doing differently and went back to what worked best for my hair. The diligence of following my regimen is paying off! I am officially Armpit length :) Next stop...Bra strap length by my B-day June 30, 2011

                                              

Tuesday, December 14, 2010

Wednesday, December 8, 2010

Hair Care Ingredients

It is so important to learn what impact different product ingredients can have on your hair. Though Products DO NOT grow your hair, they are a very important part in retaining your length. Picking up a bottle of shampoo and not really understanding what the ingredients are, can make your hair journey a bit more confusing. Listed below are a ton of ingredients you may find in hair products along with their use.


Acetamide MEA - Water soluble conditioning agent compatible with anionic and nonanionic systems as opposed to quaternary surfactants compatible only with cationics, adds shine.

Alcohol - A general term for organic ingredients that contain the OH (hydroxyl) group. Alcohols differ substantially in their properties ranging from water soluble solvents like isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol, ethyl alcohol (used by breweries, the only drinkable alcohol) through moisturizing agents like glycerine or propylene glycol to fatty alcohols like cetyl alcohol and sugars (multi alcohols).

Algae Extract - Extracted from seaweed and pondscum, rich in minerals, algae extract is claimed to prevent wrinkles, very moisturizing.

Algal Polysaccharides - Extract from red marine algae gathered off the Hawaiian coast known for its moisturizing potential and lubricity.

Allantoin - Water soluble crystal known for its ability to help heal wounds and skin ulcers and to stimulate the growth of healthy tissue.

AMP (Aminoethyl Propanol) - An organic pH adjuster used to maximize the effects of styling products.

Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate - The ammonium salt of lauryl sulfate derived from the natural coconut alcohols, it is a mild anionic surfactant widely used at acidic (mild) pH values.

Amphoteric Surfactants - Those in which the active molecule bears both positive and negative charges. Their properties depend upon th pH of the system and they may behave like anionics or cationics. Some of the finest amphoterics are used in shampoo systems formulated for dry or chemically treated hair due to their mildness and light conditioning properties.

Annatto Extract - A food grade vegetable dye from a tropical tree, yellow to orange.

Annionic Surfactants - Those in which the active molecule bears a negative electric charge. These surfactants are primarily used as cleansing agents in relatively mild shampoos for oily or normal to oily hair


Beet Extract - Extract from the stem base of the beet used for its reddish color.

Benzophenone - 3 and 4 - A sunscreen that blocks UV - A rays.

Beta Carotene - Found in all plant and many animal tissues, beta carotene is extracted as red crystals or crystalline powder, used as coloring in cosmetics. Also used in the manufacture of Vitamin A. Used also as antioxidant.

Biotin - A naturally occurring vitamin H. Some studies show that it has a positive effect on hair growth when taken internally.

Boric Acid - An inorganic acid and mild antiseptic, and preservative.

Butylene Glycol - Organic humectant similar to propylene glycol.

Caramel - Used as a coloring in cosmetics and a soothing agent in lotions. Produced by heating sugar or glucose and adding small amounts of alkali or a trace mineral acid during heating.

Carbomer 940 - An organic gelling agent.

Carrageenan - Natural thickening agent.

Cationic Surfactants - Those in which the active molecule bears a positive charge. These sufactants usually have strong conditioning properties and are used in conditioners, moisturizing treatments and paks. Cationics often have antimicrobial properties (germicides).

Ceteareth - 5 - An emollient and emulsifier. See Cetyl Alcohol.

Cetearyl Alcohol - A mixture of fatty alcohols derived from coconut oil consisting predominantly of cetyl and stearyl alcohols. Used as emollients, thickeners and emulsion stabilizers.

Ceteth - 2 - A polyethylene glycol derivative of cetyl alcohol. Water soluble. Emollient and conditioning agent and emulsifier.

Ceteth - 20 - See ceteth - 2.

Cetrimonium Bromide - A cationic conditioning agent and antiseptic widely used in the pharmaceutical industry. Due to its high cost, it is rarely used in cosmetics. Adds shine.

Cetrimonium Chloride - Quaternary conditioning agent, similar to cetrimonium bromide, but more suitable for water systems.

Cetyl Alcohol - A natural fatty alcohol derived from coconut oil widely used as an emollient and stabilizing agent in conditioning and moisturizing treatments (emulsions).

Cetyldimonium Chloride - Used often as a conditioning agent, compatible with sufactants, often used in shampoos.

Chloroxylenol - A crystalline, water soluble substance used as an antiseptic, germicide and fungicide. Penetrates skin. No known toxicity in humans when diluted below 20%.

Citric Acid - A natural, edible organic acid used to adjust pH, one of the natural hydroxy acids derived from citrus fruits.

Citric Acid USP - (see Citric Acid)

Cocamide DEA - Shampoo thickener and foam stabilizer derived from coconut fatty acids. Also assists in removal of fatty soils.

Cocamide MEA (see Cocamide DEA) - Mono - amide (MEA) as opposed to diamide (DEA).

Cocamidopropyl Betaine - An amphoteric surfactant used as a cleanser. Known for its mild conditioning properties. Derived from coconut fatty acids.

Coco Betaine - (see Cocamidopropyl Betaine)

Cyclomethicone - A silicone derivative. Adds luster and sheen.

DEA Oleth - 3 Phosphate - An emulsifier that prevents separation of product. Adds shine.

DEA Oleth - 10 Phosphate - An emulsifier derived from oleic acid, an unsaturated fatty acid.

Deionized Water - Water purified by deionization technique based on removal of highly active ions especially positively charged cations like calcium (Ca++) magnesium(MG++) and iron (Fe++) and (Fe+++).

Diazolidinyl - A cosmetic preservative.

Dicetyldimonium Chloride - (see Cetyldimonium Chloride)

Dimethicone - A silicone derivative. Adds luster and sheen.

Dimethicone Copolyol - Same as above and is water soluble.

Dimethyl Lauramine Isostearate - Conditioning and emulsifying agent.

Dimethyl Stearamine - Conditioning and emulsifying agent.

EDTA ( Ethylene Diamine Tetra Acetic Acid) - A sequestering (chelating) agent with unique properties of "neutralizing" trace metals (like calcium, iron and magnesium salts, etc.) and other deposits on hair.

Ethyl Ester PVM/MA Copolymer - Humidity resistant, non - tacky polymer.

Ethoxydiglycol - Viscosity decreasing agent.

Essential Oils - Used for fragrance, as an antiseptic, germicide and a natural preservative. Derived from natural plant oil.

Glyceryl Monstearate - An emollient, emulsifier derived from natural stearic acid and glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate - An emulsifier.

Glycolic Acid - Derived from sugar cane juice, used to adjust pH in products and as an exfoliant and moisturizer.

Glycol Stearate - See Glyceryl Monostearate.

Grapeskin Extract - The extract of the pulp of Vitis Vinifera, used as a coloring.

Green Tea Extract - A natural extract of Japanese green tea that has antioxidant and antibacterial properties.

Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride - Naturally derived from Guar tree, cationic conditioning agent used frequently in shampoos.

Hyaluronic Acid - It is the most effective moisturizing agent known to science today. It holds 500 times its own weight of water. This spectacular humectant is derived by bacterial fermentation. It is effective in concentrations as low as 20 ppm ( parts per million).

Hydrolyzed Human Hair Keratin Protein - Protein derived from human hair by enzymatic/acidic hydrolyzation.

Hydroxyethel Cellulose - Used as a thickener in creams and lotions.

Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose - Fibrous substance derived from the chief part of the cell walls of plants. Used as thickener and to give products uniform consistency and body.

Isobutane - Naturally occurring gas.

Isopropanol - An organic solvent of alcohol family. Used to solubilize resins and polymers. Also found in hair colors to dissolve the oxidation dyes.

Isopropyl Alcohol (Isopropanol) - An organic solvent of the alcohol family. Used to solubilize resins and polymers. Also found in hair colors to dissolve the oxidation dyes.

Isopropyl Palmitate - An ester of palmitic acid from coconut oil used to impart silkiness to the skin and hair.

Jojoba Oil - Partially unsaturated Jojoba Oil derived directly from the jojoba bean. Unbleached and chemically unchanged, it is used as a lubricant and sebum emulsifier.

Lactamide MEA - (see Acetamide MEA)

Lactic Acid - A natural, mild organic acid prepared by fermentation. Normally present in blood, sour milk, sauerkraut, pickles, and other food products made by bacterial fermentation. Used in cosmetics to adjust acid/alkali balance. Lactic acid is a primary component in the skin's natural buffer system.

Laureth - 3 - It is the polyethylene glycol ether of Lauryl Alcohol, principal alcohol of coconut oil. It's modified to give it a "water loving" character. Used as an emollient and emulsifier.

Lecithin - From the Greek meaning "egg yolk". Natural antioxidant, emollient and emulsifier used in a variety of cosmetics. Egg yolk is 8 - 9% lecithin.

Lineolamido Propyl Ethydimonium Ethosulfate - Antistatic and hair conditioning agent

Magnesium Citrate - Magnesium salt of citric acid.

Methacryloyl Ethyl Betaine Methacrylates Copolymer - Part of cationic system. A fixative that is water soluble if washed within 48 hours after application. Used for stiffness and high gloss in hairsprays.

Methylchloroisthiazolinone - A preservative used in shampoos to replace formaldehyde.

Methylisothiazolinone - Used with above as a preservative in shampoos to replace formaldehyde.

Methyl Paraben - Preservative derived from benzoic acid. Usually used in emulsions in conjunction with propyl paraben. It's non - toxic and approved for use in foods. It is effective against a wide range of bacteria and fungi. Contrary to popular belief, it is not a wax. Recommended concentration in cosmetics 0.2 - 0.3%.

Myristalkonium Chloride - Derived from fatty acids, it has anti - static and moisturizing properties.

Niacinamide - Mild scalp stimulant with Vitamin B. Also used as a synergizing agent.

Nonionic Surfactants - Those in which the active molecule has no electric charge. Their properties vary widely, from very harsh cleansers (often found in commercial shampoos and rug cleaners) to coating and fiber softening agents found in balsams and rinses.

Nonoxynol 12 - Used as a non ionic surface active agent and as a dispersing agent.

O - Cresol - White to reddish crystals used in the manufacture of dyes.

Octylacrylamide Acrylate Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer - Part of cationic system. A fixative that is water soluble if washed within 48 hours after application. Used for stiffness and high gloss in hair sprays.

Octylacrylamide Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer - (see Octylacrylamide Acrylate Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer)

Octyl Methoxycinnamate - A sunscreen that blocks UV - B rays that is derived from cinnamic acid.

Oleth 20 - Organic perfume stabilizer, derived from unsaturated fatty acids.

Orange Peel Extract - Extract from "green" variety of oranges, very rich in natural elements. Used for color.

Palm Kernelamide DEA and MEA - A mixture of ethanolamides of the fatty acids derived from palm kernel oil. Used as a conditioning agent and thickener for shampoos.

Panthenol - Member of the Vitamin B complex family used as a hair thickener and conditioning agent. During oxidation, it is converted to Vitamin B - 5 (pantheonic acid).

PEG - 100 Stearate - An emulsifier.

Pentacrythritol Tetra Caprate/Caprylate - Emulsifier derived from caprylic acid. Vegetable source.

Phenyl Trimethicone - Water resistant silicone, adds shine and flexibility.

Polyquaternium 11 - A fixative with anti - bacterial properties. Adds hold and sheen in styling tools.

Polysorbate 20 - A viscous, oily, water soluble liquid used to stabilize perfumes in water based preparations (like shampoos, etc.)

Polysorbate 80 - A viscous liquid used to emulsify oils.

Potassium Sorbate - A mild food grade preservative found in cheese, wine, etc.

PPG 2 Isodeceth 12 - An organic solubilixer of perfume oils and emulsifier.

Pristane - - A saturated hydrocarbon found in natural oils

Propane - A natural propellant.

Propyl Paraben - A food grade preservative - see Methyl Paraben. It is often confused with paraffin.

Propylene Glycol Dicocoate - A mixture of propylene glycol esters of coconut fatty acids. Aids in removing unwanted "build - up" from hair.

PVM/MA Copolymer - A water soluble fixative used in hairsprays and styling tools.

PVP/VA Copolymer - A water soluble fixative used in hairsprays.

Pyroxidine HCL - Vitamin B6 used as a texturizer.

Quaternium 15 - A water soluble anti microbial agent active against bacteria.

Salicylic Acid - Broad spectrum antibacterial and fungicidal agent. Used externally as an antimicrobial/anti - acne agent and in anti - dandruff shampoos as the active agent. It is found in nature in several plants, notably in sweet birch bark and wintergreen leaves (commercial sources are synthetic).

SD 40 Alcohol - Often listed as SDA40. It belongs to the alcohol family and is the only drinkable one specially denatured by adding bittering agents to make it not suitable for human consumption. It is used primarily in hair spray as a resin solvent.

SD Alcohol 40B - Same as above with different denaturants

Shea Butter - The natural fat obtained from the fruit of the Karite tree. Used as a replacement for lanolin.

Sodium Cetyl Sulfate - A derivative of saturated fatty alcohol. Water soluble.

Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate - An organic preservative derived from the amino acid glycine.

Sodium Laureth Sulfate - A derivative of polyethylene glycol and lauryl alcohol. It is much milder than sodium lauryl sulfate. It is also recommended for use in conjunction with other surfactants.

Sodium Myristoyl Sarcosinate - Very mild amphoteric surfactant. Excellent, very mild cleansing agent with light conditioning properties.

Sodium PCA - A powerful humectant (moisturizing agent). This natural moisturizer is found in stratum corneum and is part of the natural Moisturizing Factor of skin.

Sodium Thiosulfate - An inorganic salt, very reactive. Used to neutralize chlorine and other halogens.

Sorbitol - Humectant, moisturizing agent and lubricant. It has similar properties to glycerin but is more compatible to hair.

Stearalkonium Chloride - Cationic surfactant that has excellent substantivity to hair's keratin protein. Reduces static electricity by neutralizing electrical charges on hair. Good conditioning agent.

Stearamidopropyl Dimethyamine - A water soluble derivative of stearic acid. Possesses unique properties of closing hair cuticles over a wide range of pH.

Steareth 21 - The polyethelyne glycol ethers of stearyl alcohol. The number indicates the degree of liquidity from 4 (thin) to 100 (solid). An emulsifier.

Stearic Acid - An organic fatty acid used as the basic ingredient to create O/W (oil in water) emulsions in conjunction with TEA. These emulsions are water soluble with good penetrating properties.

Stearyl Alcohol - A natural fatty alcohol, very similar to cetyl alcohol. (see cetyl alcohol) Derived from coconut oil.

Surfactant - Surface agents that have many cosmetic uses. For example, cleansers, wetting agents, emulsifiers, solubizers, conditioning agents and foam stabilizers.

TEA Laureth Sulfate - A triethanolamine salt of ethoxylated lauryl sulfate, an anionic surfactant compatible with amphoterics. A very effective, yet very mild, cleansing agent.

TEA Lauryl Sulfate - (similar to TEA Laureth Sulfate)

Tetrasodium EDTA - Same as sodium EDTA or Na - EDTA. It's a chelating agent (sequestrant) that reacts with sodium, calcium and magnesium salts found in hard water and "makes" them water soluble. Reduces build - up.

Triethanolamine (TEA) - An alkanomine used as part of an emulsion system in conjunction with organic acids like stearic acid. Also serves as a softener in hair spray.

Triethyl Citrate - Derived from citric acid. It gives pliability to fixatives.

Tyrosine - A building block of protein, tyrosine is the amino acid in hair that color adheres to.

Vinyl Acetate Crotonic Acid Neodecanate Copolymer - Hairspray fixative

Xanthan Gum - A highly molecular polysaccharide gum used as a thickener.

HERBAL GLOSSARY

Alfalfa - High in vitamin K, A, D and minerals. Good for conditioning and strengthening the hair.

Althea Root - Originally used to provide marshmallow with its pillowy consistency. Althea is an extract that softens and soothes.

Apricot - A skin softener and toner, apricot acts as a brilliantine adding sheen without an oily film.

Birch Bark - American Indians used birch bark extensively for many purposes, it acts as a tonic, refreshes the skin and has anti - inflammatory qualities.

Bladderwrack - Beneficial to scalp.

Borage - An emollient herb that has a cooling and soothing effect, allaying irritation.

Chamomile - A daisy - like plant. Extract from its white and yellow heads impart luster. An essential source of vital minerals for hair.

Cinnamon Bark - One of the spices that spurred world exploration, cinnamon bark is a natural astringent known to suspend excess oil on oily skin or scalp.

Clove - An antiseptic, flavoring and stimulant. It is up to 85% eugenol - regarded as an excellent water absorber.

Clover Blossom - Beneficial in the treatment of acne.

Coltsfoot - A healing herb with emollient properties that is soothing to the scalp.

Comfrey Root - Comfrey Root extract is rich in allantoin, known for its ability to heal wounds and stimulate the growth of healthy tissue.

Eucalyptus - Antiseptic, cooling and stimulating, eucalyptus oil has blood stimulation properties, beneficial for the treatment of hair loss.

Horsetail - Beneficial for the treatment of acne, horsetail has a high silica content providing texture.

Lavender - Its name derived from the Latin verb "to wash" lavender is a relaxing, cleansing herb that is also a circulation stimulant.

Lemongrass - Used for sheen and cleansing. Also used as an elasticizer in hairsprays.

Lichen Extract - Highly concentrated extract of alpine linchen (usnea barbata). It is a bactericide, fungicide and is also effective against yeast. Used in deodorants, foot care products, mouth hygiene, and antimicrobial washes.

Matricaria - Also known as Chamomile

Nettle - Rich in minerals and plant hormones, nettle extract is cleansing and astringent. Used in folk medicine to stimulate hair growth, it also acts as a glossifier.

Oat - Extract of oat has cleansing and soothing properties.

Orange Flower - Used for emmoliency and to impart luster.

Parsley - Infusions of parsley are known to be cleansing and soothing also having high vitamin and mineral content.

Peppermint - Emolient herb that is astringent, stimulating, cleansing, restorative and healing.

Raspberry - Stimulating and astringent.

Rose - Rose water has been used as early as the tenth century for its cleansing and astringent benefits.

Rosemary - Very rich in natural minerals, rosemary is soothing, cleansing, stimulating and astringent. It also brightens and adds high gloss to the hair.

Safflower - Safflower oil is an unsaturated vegetable oil derived from safflower. It is used for its moisturizing and softening properties.

Sage - Calming, cleansing, soothing and astringent, sage was associated with longevity in ancient times.

Slippery Elm - Used for its emollient properties.

Sweet Almond Oil - A natural "non - oily" oil that adds sheen.

Thyme - A calming cleanser, thyme tones and refreshes while also having antiseptic benefits.

Wheat Germ Oil - An oily extract from wheat germ that is very rich in natural vitamin E.

Witch Hazel - Used as an astringent, and an aid in setting hair.

Yarrow - An extract for cleansing and astringency.

Monday, December 6, 2010

Coconut Oil and Your Hair

Coconut oil is one of my favorite oils for hair. I seal with it, deep condition with it, and use it as a pre- poo.  Coconut oil has served the human head's crowning glory for millennia. Its unique chemical structure enables it to harmlessly clean, beautify, nourish and protect your hair.  I actually strayed away from it for a while and actually noticed a change in the way my hair held protein...so I will stray no more. It's very light weight and smells great! Read on to find out why coconut oil may be one of your best friends when on your healthy hair journey.

Hair Facts

Your head has about 100,000 hair follicles. Each follicle can grow about 20 individual hairs in your lifetime. Truly healthy hair begins in the hair follicle. Blood carries nutrients through arteries connected to your hair follicles.  Coconut oil and hair growth goes hand-in-hand and is naturally safe. It replaces the natural oils your hair looses on a regular basis.

Hair Protein Loss

Unlike ordinary shampoo formulations, coconut oil helps minimize protein loss during washing to keep each hair strand strong. Coconut oil keeps protein loss at a minimum because of its close association with hair proteins. It’s mostly medium chain triglycerides (MCT) which can pass freely through the cell membrane. The low molecular weight of MCTs enables efficient penetration inside the hair shaft.

Sunday, December 5, 2010

My Staples

Starting a healthy hair journey can also start serious PJism (product junkie) problem...I admit I am one.  But I get it...it's really about learning what works for your hair, what does not and building the best regimen for you. So while I am trying to narrow down what products I purchase, I just can't help testing out new products when I run out of the old ones : ) However I must say there are just some products I continue to go back to time and time again. These I consider my staples...hair products I can't live without.
Suave Professional Almond & Shea Butter Conditioner...LOVE THIS

Bee Mine Lovely Moisturizing Conditioner

Shea Moisture's Deep Treatment Masque


Jane Carter Solution Revitalizing Leave-In Conditioner
Herbal Essence's Hello Hydration Conditioner


Extra Virgin Coconut Oil

Fantasia IC Aloe Vera Styling Gel



PhytoSpecific Relaxer

Saturday, December 4, 2010

My Decision to Texlax

So much has happened since my last post in September!  I made the decision to transition from relaxed to texlaxed.  I had been pondering for a while if I would make the transition...but this all came to be by mistake.  My first attempt at self relaxing (in a few years) was in Spetmeber and because I am soooo paranoid about over processing my hair I rinsed my Phyto relaxer too soon. What I got was still wavy ( but much looser pattern) roots that were very soft and manageable.  I decided then no more bone straight hair!

For those of you that do not know what texlaxing is...it is still relaxing, but the chemicals are left on for a shorter period of time to purposely under-process the hair.  This way more peptide bonds are left in tact and the curl pattern is loosened up a bit, not completely taken out.  I made this decision because it will leave me with stronger hair, allow me more versatility with styling (wear curly or straight), and it will allow me to have much thicker hair.  I will not have to worry so much about over-processing in an attempt to get it bone straight...all in all I think is the best decision I have made for my hair besides the decision to start this healthy hair journey.

A great side to this is discovering that my natural texture is so beautiful.  I love the wave pattern!  I still want to texlax rather than go all natural because I want to enjoy the length with looser elongated curls and allow for easier manageability.  The picture below is the top view of my hair after a co-wash and I am about 9 week post. There is also about 3 months of previously texlaxed hair in there too : ) I am still using my PhytoSpecific relaxer to texlax. Will texlax again around Christmas....6 month progress pics will be posted then, how exciting!

Wednesday, September 22, 2010

End of 14 week Stretch



Well I have been on my healthy hair journey for about 4 months now! I did get a need trim after the first month. I am so happy to report that I have not fallen off at all on my hair regimen ( it has been tweaked, fewer products lol) since the start of my May 2010 journey. I have been wearing a protective style every day,cleaning my hair 2x weekly (1 poo and 1 co wash), moisturizing and sealing twice daily, and I have noticed that I don't need a trim after almost 4 months! This is major!! Normally my hair breaks so much that I am in big need of another trim after about a month. My hair is almost as even as they day I had it cut. I am completing my 14 week stretch now, and plan to self relax with my PhytoRelaxer on September 25, 2010. I will do a dusting, not a full trim and pull out my trusty length check shirt to measure growth. I did a check about 2 months ago, and I was right at the #1 line. Hopefully I will be at the #2 once I relax. Will aim for a 16 week stretch next go round. I am soooo happy I embarked on this journey.

Sunday, June 20, 2010

Protective Style 101: The Chignon

I have been surfing my normal hair forums and every now and then I will see some women refer to their protective style as a braid out or a bantu knot out. These are NOT protective styles in my opinion. Those are considered no heat styles and a healthier way to style hair. However a real protective styles allow you to wear your hair in a way where you have the hair ends out of sight, and they are protected. They are not rubbing against your clothes or coming in contact with other environmental elements that may harm it such as wind, sun, and the drying air. So I decided to start posting ideas for healthy protective ways to style you hair. First up is the Chignon.


 A chignon, pronounced "sheen-yon,” is a popular type of bun style. The word “chignon” comes from the French phrase “chignon du cou,” which means nape of the neck. Chignons are generally achieved by pinning the hair into a knot at the nape of the neck, but there are many different variations of the style. This style is simple and very ideal for daily wear. Its a great way to keep your ends protected and tucked away from exposure to open air. This will help in retaining your length. Remember to moisturize and seal the ends first and do not start the pony tail too tight. You want to ensure you are not putting too much tension on your nape which is very sensitive to breaking. Dont be afraid to experiment with styling your chignon in new creative ways. Those with shorter hair can also create these styles using hair pieces or even wrap you braided extensions in a chignon.







Below is quick how to video on the basic chignon style


How to Put Long Hair in a Bun -- powered by eHow.com


Baobab Oil for Hair Health

Baobab Oil is derived from the seeds of the Baobab tree ( also know as the upside down tree) native to eastern and southern Africa. It has been part of African skin care for centuries. Baobab oil has a high content of vitamins A, D, E, and F that combine to give impressive moisturizing qualities to the skin and hair. Baobab Oil absorbs quickly, improves elasticity, encourages regeneration of cells and does not clog pours.  It is also said to alleviate pain from burns and regenerates the epithelial tissues in a short time, thereby improving skin tone and elasticity.

Is your hair dry and brittle or have dandruff or itchy scalp? Baobab oil can be a soothing solution to all of these problems. It's inherent moisturizing qualities, plus vitamins A, E and F help to regenerate and heal broken hair, while soothing and healing itchy, irritated scalp.

You can apply it alone after shampooing your hair as a conditioner and then rinse it out after a few minutes. You can also just add a drop or two of baobab oil to your regular hair conditioner. It can also be used as a leave-in conditioner. Just rub a few drops in your palms and then apply throughout your hair for gloss and conditioning.

Discover multitudes of ways to enrich your hair with new, rare baobab oil. This oil comes from Zambia, where it is pressed from the fruit of the baobab tree. The oil is considered so valuable, that people from across the globe will travel to Zambia to get it. Baobab oil is endowed with essential fatty acids and vitamins A, D, E, and F that work to dramatically improve your hair health. 

Shea Moisture's Yucca & Baobab Shampoo

Shea Moisture Organic Yucca & Baobab Thickening Shampoo with Biotin, Bamboo Extracts: For Fine, Thin Hair

This shampoo came into my life at the perfect time. I was on a mad hunt to find a good shampoo with all natural ingredients and sulfate free. It was very hard to find what I had been looking for, but alas! I AM IN LOVE with this shampoo.The ingredients are so rich, rare and nourishing. It is free of all the harmful harsh ingredients that are so damaging to the hair strand structure. Even better than what this product does not contain is what it does contain. My hair was so soft and pliable as I shampooed it, it gives great lather, and hair is super soft even before I conditioned it. I have finally found my staple moisturizing shampoo. I urge you to try it today! Remember the Shea Moisture Hair line is sold exclusively at Target stores and Target.com. The product features the extracts of Baobab. I was not familiar with this tree's oil or use properties, so I did more research and the findings were very informative. Just one more reason why I love this shampoo. Be sure to check out my post on Baobab tree as well. Happy Growing!


Ingredients: Ingredients: deionized water, decyl glucoside (sugar beets), yucca soap, butyrospermum parkii (shea) oil, aloe vera leaf juice, adansonia digitata (baobab) extract, biotin, sodium lauroyl lactylate (coconut oil), vegetable protein, yucca filamentosa extract, rosemary extract, bamboo extract, lonicera caprifolium (honeysuckle) flower (and) lonicera japonica (japenese honeysuckle) flower extract.

What is Shea Butter?



Shea Butter is extracted from the pit of a fruit that grows on the Magnifolia tree which begins to bear after about fifteen years, in Central and West Africa. The pits are removed from the fruit, boiled and then sun dried for several days until they are completely dehydrated, and the butter is extracted by hand. Shea Butter is graded raw, refined and highly refined. Some of our butters are highly refined and others are raw.
Shea Butter has healing, skin protection and moisturizing properties, and it contains natural sun protection. Used daily on the face and body it drastically reduces sun exposure, which in turn slows down the aging process due to external factors.
Unique to Shea Butter is it's high content of non-saponifiable fats. This natural fatty acid action penetrates the skin at a cellular level, contributing to the regeneration process of dry and wrinkled skin. It also helps to heal scars, burns and stretch marks.
Additionally, Shea Butter replenishes elasticity, nourishes the skin with vitamins A, E and F, treats skin irritations, cold sores, itching, eczema, burns, dermatitis and skin discolorations.


SHEABUTTER…

  • Heals
  • Protects
  • Moisturizes
  • Reduces sun exposure
  • Slows down the aging process
  • Heals scars
  • Heals burns
  • Fades stretch marks
  • Replenishes elasticity
  • Nourishes the skin with vitamins A, E and F
  • Treats all skin irritations
  • Treats cold sores
  • Itching
  • Dermatitis
  • Skin discoloration