Two-Year Hair Journey Update

June is my 2 YEAR HAIR-VERSARY and I am beyond amazed at how far I have come in such a short period of time.  I started out my hair journey with unhealthy thin bone-straight relaxed hair that was a little shorter than shoulder length. Today I still relax, but NOT bone straight. My hair is hovering right at mid-back length and I am well on my way to hopefully reaching my goal length of waist length hair.  I have learned so much about what it takes to grow and maintain healthy hair from those that have successfully completed their own journeys.  Great reads are Grow It by Chicoro, and The Science of Black hair by Audrey Davis-Sivasothy, both available through amazon.com.  I think it was so beneficial early on to gain knowledge and inspiration from ladies on the long hair care hair boards. One of the best is k-i-s-s-.biz (also know as Keep it Simple Sista).  I always say the best thing you can do for your hair is to educate yourself on healthy hair care! Learn what products you need to avoid, what styles to avoid and mechanical devices cause damage to hair. Learn how CRITICAL the moisture content of your is.  Once you realize the impact this has on the health of your hair, dropping certain practices and adding new ones to your regimen will become a no-brainer. Today I LOVE my hair and I NEVER thought I would be able to utter the words.  If I can grow my hair long and strong ANYBODY can.  I always thought long healthy relaxed hair was unattainable if you have had short damaged hair all your life like I did.  This simply is not true.  If you are displeased with the health and condition of your hair, relaxed or natural, take an active approach in caring for it yourself.  If that means ditching your hair dresser then so be it! Black women's hair was made to grow to great lengths just as women's hair of any other race.  I have posted Pics of my progress over the past two years.  I hope you will find it inspiring and proof that educating yourself will allow you to achieve anything : ) Happy Growing!

Start of my Hair Journey June 2010 - Length Check w/ Wet Hair

1 year into my HJ - June 2011 - Length Check

2 years into my HJ - June 2012 - Length Check

Beginning Length June 2010

Current Length June 2012!!!

New Carol's Daughter Monoi Challenge!

I don't know about you all, but I am over excited about the new CD line "Monoi", which features three new products that promise longer, stronger hair. Now I don't get to heavy into the promises product make but I do get amped when it comes to a great product ingredient list and the offering of something different. What is Monoi oil you ask? Well it is actually an oil that Tahitian's have used for many centuries to moisturize and maintain the beauty and health of their hair and skin. Monoi oil is a natural beauty product based on two unique ingredients, Tiare Tahiti (Gardenia Tahitensis) and refined Polynesian Coconut oil (Cocos Nucifera). Monoi is stabilized with Vitamin E.

You guys know I LOVE coconut oil and can't live without it. The results and benefits my hair has garnered with its use are pretty evident if you read my blog on a regular basis. I was wondering WHEN Lisa Price would finally include a line that would feature Coconut oil as its main ingredient....and now she goes and gives us something that I think will be GREAT. This line not only includes Monoi oil but also bamboo water which is the strongest plant on our planet. This will help to reinforce the hair's structure and give it longer life. Not to mention it features the use of shea butter, silk protiens and pro vitamin B-5. I love what this line will bring to Carol's daughter brand. I have decided to start my first challenge. So to help get me to BSL by my June 30th B-day, I will use the CD Monoi Repairing mask as my weekly deep treatment, the Monoi shampoo & conditioner as my hair care staples for the next 2 months. Hopefully CD delivers on the promise of stronger longer hair! I will keep you all updated and deliver full reviews once I have finished using a full container of the products.

Ingredients List


Monoi Repairing Shampoo: Water (Aqua), Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-150 Distearate, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Decyl Glucoside, Sodium Lauroyl Oat Amino Acids, Coconut Oil Glycereth-8 Esters, Shea Butter Glycereth-8 Esters, Polyglyceryl-3 Laurate, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Gardenia Tahitensis Flower Extract, Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil, Phyllostachis Bambusoides Juice, Moringa Pterygosperma Seed Extract, Helianthus Annuus(Sunflower) Seed Extract, Hydrolyzed Hibiscus Esculentus Extract, Cassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide, Hydrolyzed Silk, Panthenol (Pro-vitamin B5), Glycerin, Glycol Distearate, Cinnamidopropyltrimonium Chloride, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Quaternium-91, PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate, Disodium EDTA, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol, Methylisothiazolinone, Fragrance (Parfum)

Monoi Repairing Hair Mask: Water (Aqua), Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Glycerin, Cetyl Esters, Dimethicone, Fragrance (Parfum), Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oiol, Gardenia Tahitensis Flower Extract, Cyclopentasiloxane, Isohexadecane, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil, Moringa Pterygosperma Seed Oil, Phyllostachis Bambusoides Juice, Hydrolyzed Hibiscus Esculentus Extract, Cassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccaride, Helianthus Annus (Sunflower) Seed Extrac, Panthenol (Pro-vitamin B5), Cetrimonium Chloride, Cetrimonium Phenyl Trimethicone, Dimethiconol, Octyldodecanol, Ceteareth-20, Quarternium-91, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Methylisothiazolinone

Monoi Repairing Conditioner:Water (Aqua), Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Glycerin, Isododecane, Fragrance (Parfum), Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Isohexadecane, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Gardenia Tahitensis Flower Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil, Moringa Pterygosperma Seed Oil, Phyllostachis Bambusoides Juice, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Hydrolyzed Silk, Hydrolyzed Hibiscus Esculentus Extract, Cassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Extract, Panthenol (Pro-vitamin B5), Cetrimonium Chloride, Cetrimonium Methosulfate, Cinnamidopropyltrimonium Chloride, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Octyldodecanol, Ceteareth-20, Quaternium-91, Citric Acid, Tetrasodium EDTA, Sorbic Acid, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol, Methylisothiazolinone

Top 10 Tips for Growing IT!

Starting your healthy hair journey requires changing those old habits that has caused you to neutralize your hair growth. These are my TOP TEN tips on retaining as much length as possible. We WILL reach our healthy hair and length goals if we are consistant with our regimens and grow our knowledge on hair health.

#1. Keep moisture on your hair. This means co-washing as needed to renew hair's moisture on a regular basis. Apply a leave in conditioner or sprtiz hair with water, then seal with an oil daily to lock in moisture in between washes and co-washes.  Making sure hair has sufficient moisture is the most important step in retaining your length.

#2. Deep Condition often. Once a week is a good starting point. This will keep your hair moisturized and will give it great nourishment.

#3. Keep ends trimmed. Split ends become bigger problems once they travel up the hair shaft; damage will only get worse. When hair breaks it does not break 100% even, so a split is likely to develop on those strands. Doing a light dusting (trimming 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch or trimming visible splits strand by strand) every few weeks on your ends allows YOU to control what you take off the ends.

#4. Make sure your hair has sufficient protein.  Finding the right moisture/protein balance will give you the healthiest hair possible.  Relaxing removes protein from the strands, so it is very important relaxed/ texlaxed heads do a protein treatment periodically to restore the hair's strength.  Missing this step in your hair regimen can be detrimental to your progress. Don't over do it with protein, or you will get stiff, hard hair prone to breaking...always follow up with a deep condition after you finish your protein treatment. Remember balance is key.

#5.  Avoid applying heat to your hair ( especially direct heat i.e., flat iron, curling iron, blow dryers). Heat breaks and then reforms the hydrogen bonds in the inner core of the hair fiber. While the goal of using heat is to alter the inner substance of the hair, the unwanted consequence may be damage to the outer protective cuticle, causing weathering, damage and eventual hair breakage.  If you decide to use heat be sure your hair is clean and conditioned. Always use a heat protectant first! Air dry your hair as much as possible and treat your self to a heated style only on special occasions( at least until you reach your goal length).

#6. Decrease hair manipulation. Excessive combing, brushing and handeling of hair will put more stress on your strands, which can make it more prone to breakage. Style your hair and leave it be for the remainder of the day!

#7.  Get proper nutrition and hydrate for healthier hair.

#8.  Wear a protective style as often as possible. Avoid those that add tension and stress like sew in weaves and very tight pony tails.  You will be so happy you did!

#9.  Educate yourself on what you are putting on your hair. Pull out your trunk of hair products right now. If you see ingredients like sodium laureth sulfate, mineral oils and petroleum, it may be time for you to put more effort info finding products that will foster healthier hair growth.  There are products out there that will cause even further damage to your hair. Take an active approach in avoiding them.

#10. BELIEVE that you will reach your hair goals and everything will fall into place. Put an end to being tired and frustrated with your hair. All hair was made to grow, even black women's hair, contrary to all the ridiculous myths out there.

Apply these tips and you will see a rapid change in hair health...I know I did : )  U grow girl!

Deep Conditioning Series: Part One

Deep conditioning is very important for all hair types...if you are relaxed/texlaxed it is critical! Deep conditioning is the ultimate and needed nutrition for hair health.  Each strand of hair has 3 layers. Deep conditioning affects the outer layer which is called the cuticle. The cuticle resembles shingles on a roof. They overlap each other, and should lay down flat. When your hair becomes dry and damaged, these shingles will stand up away from the hair shaft. This is what gives hair the dull, frizzy look. Deep conditioning the proper way and with the right products will help to smooth the cuticle, making the shingles (hair cuticles) lay down again, giving your hair a smoother, shinier, healthier appearance.


Deep conditioning is different from applying a simple rinse out conditioner with only a couple of ingredients.  It is usually done with a thicker heavier conditioner and left on for a period of time with heat.  This restores oils and moisture deep with in the hair shaft that we loose with exposure to natural elements, washing and styling.  If you are missing this step from your hair care regimen, please add it today!  I cannot stress enough the importance of this to anyone who wishes to maintain longer healthier hair.


I have been deep conditioning every week (sometimes twice a week) without fail for the time I have been on my journey.  It keeps breakage to a minimum, my hair is no longer dry frizzy and porous, it is stronger than ever, and much more manageable.  Split ends are few and far in between and my hair has excellent elasticity.  It is also very important to follow up any protein treatments with deep conditioning to counteract the stiffness or dryness and give the hair its elasticity back. There are tons of options out there for you to choose from.  Just make sure you read the labels before purchasing. Find out what your hair needs and what is best for your hair type.  I prefer deep conditioners with a natural and longer list of ingredients. Others may prefer them with fewer ingredients. Check out my second post to this series for a how to for properly deep condition you hair.

Deep Conditioning Series: Part Two

HOW TO PROPERLY DEEP CONDITION YOUR HAIR

What you will need:

Time — About an hour. I usually deep condition in the late evening or weekends when I don’t have to be anywhere anytime soon. Sometimes I will leave it on my hair for hours after the heating process when I want to give my hair some extra pampering. 

A Deep Conditioner — I really believe that you should invest in a high-quality (not necessarily expensive) deep conditioner. There are so many to choose from. Visit www.curlmart.com for a range of great and hard to find DCs. I personally love, love, love Spiral Solution's Deeply Decadent Conditioner, and Shea Moisture's Deep Treatment Mask , which I also love. Drug Store Brands like Suave’s Professional Shea Butter & Almond Conditioner and Suave Professional's Humectant are absolutely awesome in my opinion if you working on a tight budget.

Plastic Cap 

Heating Unit — Hooded Dryer, Hot towel, Heating Pad, Blow Dryer Cap, or a Micro Heat Wrap

How to Deep Condition your hair:

1. If you wish, you can wash your hair first...or like many you can apply to dry hair. I always detangle then braid my hair in 4 sections, before I wash and DC. This minimizes tangles drastically, reduce combing, and I see much less hair in the comb with this method. Saves my precious hair and time!

2. Generously apply your deep conditioner to the hair, and focus on the ends ( this is the oldest and driest part of the hair. Work through with your fingers, or use a wide toothed comb to work through your hair. I would also encourage you to add additional oils to your DC...Extra virgin Coconut Oil, Extra Virgin Olive oil and Jamaican black Castor oil are among my favs. To simplify I have been using Carol's Daughter's Lisa's Hair Elixir to incorporate several different oils in one go. This really enhances the deep conditioning for me.

3. Place the shower cap over hair, and then put the heating device on your head for at least a full 15 minutes ( I personally never go under  30 mins...that's why setting aside time for a DC is critical for me). You need to at minimum allow 15 minutes so the hair cuticle can open fully, and let the conditioner completely permeate and feed your hair. After 15+ minutes or longer, (you could leave the conditioner on at this point, even all night after heating), take off your cap and let your hair cool for at least 5 minutes. This allows your hair shaft to close again.

4. Rinse hair with warm water until about 80% of the conditioner is rinsed out.

5. Do a final rinse with the coldest water you can stand. This is important to seal your hair shaft and get all the benefits of your deep conditioning treatment.

6. Apply a leave-on conditioner (and oil to seal  if you choose) and allow your hair to air dry.

7. Do not wash your hair the next day. Give your hair a break after a deep conditioning for at least 24 hours. 

I suggest deep conditioning at least once weekly. Sunday evenings are the best for me. By doing this, your hair can become healthier, stronger and shinier. It will regain its softness and elasticity. Moisture-robbed hair is more subject to breakage and unmanageability. Remember, deep conditioning regularly is a key step in retaining your length.

Healthier Hair is Here!

Well I treated myself to a heated style finally :) I deep conditioned with Spiral Solutions Deeply Decadent for 30 mins (short on time), then shampooed with Carol Daughter Tui Herbal Shampoo.  Next I did a final conditioner rinse with Elasta QP Intense Hydration.  I applied my leave ins, dried hair under hooded dryer for 40 minutes then flat ironed. The length I retained is so amazing and I loved how much fuller and healthier my hair looks.

Seven months into my HHJ and my hair is healthier than it has ever been.  No static in my hair after the wind gets to it, no frizzing (even though I am texlaxed), my hair is split end free and I didn't even have to comb it the entire night out! My curls stayed and everyone gave me compliments on how great my hair looks. I LOVE MY HAIR, FINALL...didn't think I would ever say those words : )
Now I will return to NO heat until my goal of Bra strap length is reached.

JUNE 2010                              JANUARY 2011

                                                

Top 10 Food For Healthy hair

When it comes to healthy hair, it’s not just what you put on your tresses that count -- it’s what you put in your body, too.

Courtesy of Hilary Parker for WebMD Feature "Lather, rinse, repeat" may be standard advice, but shampoo and conditioner alone won't give you the healthy hair you crave. For the most luxurious locks possible, you'll need to step out of the shower, and into the kitchen.

"Your hair grows about 1/4 to 1/2 inch every month, and the foundation of all of our new hair, skin, and nail growth is the nutrients we eat," says Dawn Jackson Blatner, RD, a Chicago-based dietitian. "If you eat a healthy diet, you will grow stronger and healthier cells throughout your entire body -- inside and out."

Healthy Hair Food No. 1: Salmon

When it comes to foods that pack a beauty punch, it's hard to beat salmon. Loaded with omega-3 fatty acids, this high-quality protein source is also filled with vitamin B-12 and iron.

"Essential omega-3 fatty acids are needed to support scalp health," says Andrea Giancoli, MPH, RD, a dietitian in Los Angeles and a spokeswoman for the American Dietetic Association. "A deficiency can result in a dry scalp and thus hair, giving it a dull look."

Vegetarian? Include one or two tablespoons of ground flaxseed in your daily diet for some plant-based omega-3 fats.

Healthy Hair Food No. 2: Dark Green Vegetables

Popeye the Sailor Man didn't eat all that spinach for healthy hair, but he could have. Spinach, like broccoli and Swiss chard, is an excellent source of vitamins A and C, which your body needs to produce sebum. The oily substance, secreted by your hair follicles, is the body's natural hair conditioner.

Dark green vegetables also provide iron and calcium.

Healthy Hair Food No. 3: Beans

Beans, beans, they're good for your ... hair?

Yes, it's true. Legumes like kidney beans and lentils should be an important part of your hair-care diet. Not only do they provide plentiful protein to promote hair growth, but ample iron, zinc, and biotin. While rare, biotin deficiencies can result in brittle hair.

Blatner, who is also a spokeswoman for the American Dietetic Association, recommends three or more cups of lentils or beans each week

Healthy Hair Food No. 4: Nuts

Do you go nuts for thick, shiny hair? You should.

Brazil nuts are one of nature's best sources of selenium, an important mineral for the health of your scalp.

Walnuts contain alpha-linolenic acid, an omega-3 fatty acid that may help condition your hair. They are also a terrific source of zinc, as are cashews, pecans, and almonds. A zinc deficiency can lead to hair shedding, so make sure nuts are a regular on your healthy hair menu.

Healthy Hair Food No. 5: Poultry

Chickens and turkeys may have feathers, but the high-quality protein they provide will help give you the healthy hair you crave.

"Without adequate protein or with low-quality protein, one can experience weak brittle hair, while a profound protein deficiency can result in loss of hair color," Giancoli tells WebMD.

Poultry also provides iron with a high degree of bioavailability, meaning your body can easily reap its benefits.

Healthy Hair Food No. 6: Eggs

When it comes to healthy hair, it doesn't matter whether you like your eggs scrambled, fried, or over easy. However they're served up, eggs are one of the best protein sources you can find.

They also contain biotin and vitamin B-12, which are important beauty nutrients.

Healthy Hair Food No. 7: Whole Grains

Sink your teeth into hearty whole grains, including whole-wheat bread and fortified whole-grain breakfast cereals, for a hair-healthy dose of zinc, iron, and B vitamins.

A whole-grain snack can also be a great go-to food when your energy is zapped halfway through the afternoon, and you've still got hours to go before dinner.

Healthy Hair Food No. 8: Oysters

Oysters may be better known for their reputation as an aphrodisiac, but they can also lead to healthy hair -- and who doesn't love that?

The key to their love and hair-boosting abilities is zinc -- a powerful antioxidant.

If oysters don't make a regular appearance on your dinner plate, don't despair. In addition to getting it from whole grains and nuts, you can also get zinc from beef and lamb.

Healthy Hair Food No. 9: Low-Fat Dairy Products

Low-fat dairy products like skim milk and yogurt are great sources of calcium, an important mineral for hair growth. They also contain whey and casein, two high-quality protein sources.

For some healthy hair foods "to-go," try throwing a yogurt or cottage cheese cup in your bag when you head out in the morning to snack on later in the day. You can even boost their hair benefits by stirring in a couple of tablespoons of ground flaxseeds or walnuts for omega-3 fatty acids and zinc.

Healthy Hair Food No. 10: Carrots

Carrots are an excellent source of vitamin A, which promotes a healthy scalp along with good vision.

Since a healthy scalp is essential for a shiny, well-conditioned head of hair, you'd be wise to include carrots in your diet as snacks or toppings on your salad.

The Big Picture: A Balanced Diet for Healthy Hair

When it comes to foods for healthy hair and beauty, variety is the best way to go.

"An overall balanced diet of lean proteins, fruits, and vegetables, whole grains, legumes, fatty fish like salmon and low-fat dairy will help keep hair healthy," Giancoli says.

If you're tempted to drop pounds fast with the latest fad diet, it could leave you with less-than-healthy hair -- along with a growling stomach. Low-calorie diets are often low in some of the most important nutrients for healthy hair, including omega-3 fatty acids, zinc, and vitamin A. In addition to stunting hair growth and leading to dullness, super-low calorie plans may even cause hair loss.

"Crash diets can affect the hair cycle," Mirmirani tells WebMD. "Losing a significant amount of weight in a short amount of time can affect that normal hair rhythm. Two to three months later, you might notice a significant increase in shedding. This is a temporary problem that you recover from with a well-rounded diet."

Regimen Updated

Below is my updated Regimen with a list of products I alternate for each step. Really as long as you are putting moisture into the hair daily, sealing with an oil to lock that moisture in, and keeping your scalp clean, you can use what ever products work best for their hair (But please avoid mineral oils,  and petroleum based products as they can suffocate the hair and scalp, lock out moisture and inhibit hair growth). You can use an wide range of products to alternate, or you can choose a minimal amount of products. They key is doing what works best for your hair. If you don't have time to cleanse often, you may not want to apply too many oils and other products as often to avoid build up.  On the other hand if you clean your hair two or three times a weeks because you have a naturally oily scalp, then extra conditioning and keeping oils on those ends is key to avoiding breakage. I have also posted more before and after shots of my 6 month hair journey update. Stay consistant in your regimen and you WILL see results! Happy growing :)

- Wash with a natural Shampoo one a week (Sunday): Bee Mine Ayurvedic Bar or Shea Moisture's Coconut & Hibiscus. 

- Co Wash Once a week (Wed) with a moisturizing conditioner: Suave Professionals Shea & Almond Conditioner, Herbal Essences Hello Hydration, or Bee Mine Bee Lovely Moisturizing Conditioner  

-Deep Condition 2x a week (Wed & Sun after my co wash or shampoo): Spiral Solutions Deeply Decadent Conditioning treatment, Shea Moisture's Deep Conditioning mask, Darcy's Botanicals Deep Conditioning Mask

- Light/ Medium Protein Treatments done as needed, or once a month minimum: Aphogee 2 minute reconstructor ( NOT the 2 step hard protein treatment), Coppola's Keratin Deep Conditioning treatment, or Spiral Solutions Repairing Protein treatment. 

- Leave Ins: Jane Carter Solution Revitalizing Leave In conditioner ( Spritz 2x a day to keep moisture on my strands.

- I use a light protein leave in spray (Spiral Solutions Strength & shine or Aphogee Green Tea & Keratin Leave In...applied after my shampoos once a week

- Seal hair nightly with natural oils to lock in moisture from conditioners: Carol's Daughter Hair Balm (my new Fav), Extra Virgin Coconut oil, Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Carol's Daughter's Lisa's Hair Elixer or Jamaician Black Castor Oil.

- Clarify once a month to remove build up: Bee Mine Purity Bar, Giovanni 50:50 Hydrating Clarifying Shampoo.

- I air dry 99% of the time and wear my hair in a bun or a phony pony.  I will be on a no heat diet and wear protective styles until i have reached Bra strap length. 

- Trim/ Dust about 1/4 inch after every relaxer.  I don't require a lot of trimming because I have worn a protective bun or phony pony for everyday of my journey.  I have used heat only once the past 6 months and this has allowed me to retain so much length and have very little breakage.

More Update Pics 6 months of Progress

June 2010

December 2010  (sorry, I did not comb out hair before this shot)

June 2010

December 2010

Six Month Hair Journey Update

JUNE 2010

DECEMBER 2010

I cannot believe how much time has passed since I started my HHJ.  I started in May/June 2010 and here we are in December. I have crossed the six month marker and now its time to witness the RESULTS!  I am sure many of you will start your journey and doubt that you are really getting the results you need to reach your hair length goals.  This why I encourage you to track your journey with photographs!  You can see and compare your progress, and the effectiveness of your regimen. Use your progress photos as a guide, motivation, and diary for your HHJ. If you dont see the proof in your photos, its possible you need to revisit the components of your regimen, and look at what products you are using.  It is so important to listen to your hair and give it what it needs. For the past month or so, I began to experience some breakage. In my head I was convinced I was using enough moisture, but the winter weather was telling my hair otherwise, so I tweaked a few things, and now the breakage is at bay.  At one point I began to skip my second deep conditioning treatment some weeks, skip sealing and only spritz moisture on to my hair and these small changes, produced negative results (breakage).  So I back tracked figured out what I was doing differently and went back to what worked best for my hair. The diligence of following my regimen is paying off! I am officially Armpit length :) Next stop...Bra strap length by my B-day June 30, 2011

                                              

Ode to Black Hair for Little Girls Everywhere

THANK YOU SESAME STREET! Teaching Black girls that loving their hair is a GREAT thing: )

I Wanna Be Like Wanakee

I am again so excited about my HHJ. I am on the computer day and night trying to educate myself on the best ways to care for my relaxed hair and get it to my longest lengths. I wanted to take the time out to pay homage to one of the pioneers of black hair health and protective styling, Wanakee Pugh. I remember seeing pictures in Essence magazine of Wanakee when I was a young girl, and a myriad of thoughts would enter my head. Her beautiful hair looked simply unattainable or I thought it must be a weave...or I even thought, well her name is Wanakee, she must be half Native American with hair like that lol. In the end I would just feel like my hair was inferior. I thought, she has always had this long luscious hair and I could never even dream about having hair this long and healthy. Well, today I feel different. Wanakee shared her countelss hours of research, personal hair journey stories and gave us the tools we need to educate ourselves on proper hair care for African American textures, and how to grow your natural, texlaxed or relaxed hair to great lengths. The information below is from Wanakee's Practical guide to hair care. I even included some pics of Wanakees hair thought her journey, as she did not have long hair until she started deep conditioning, trimming as needed and WEARING PROTECTIVE STYLES. Enjoy!


WANAKEE'S PRACTICAL GUIDE TO HAIR CARE

INTRODUCTION
If your hair has been damaged, take heart. Your hair is growing while you’re reading this. It was growing yesterday while you were having dinner, and it will be growing during your coffee break. If you’ve ever had a relaxer or hair color in your hair you know how fast it grows; seems like you need your roots touched up every time you blink! Yet women constantly say, "My hair just won’t grow. Why doesn’t it ever get any longer?"

In order for your hair to grow, it has to have what I call a ‘healthy growth pattern’. Here’s what a healthy growth pattern looks like: Grow, grow, grow, trim. Grow, grow, grow, trim. Grow, grow, grow, trim. Notice, there’s three times more growing going on here than trimming.


An ‘unhealthy growth pattern’ looks like this: Grow, break, grow, break. Grow, break, grow, break. There’s as much breakage going on here, as there is growth. You can see clearly that the hair is growing. But it’s breaking just as fast as it grows; the breakage is NEUTRALIZING the growth, making it appear as if it’s not growing at all! So what’s causing all the breakage? Dry, brittle hair.

THE MAIN REASON FOR DRY HAIR
You’ll notice that after you trim your hair, the ends seem dry again almost immediately! You’d think it was because of too much heat or blow-drying or maybe a bad perm. Although these treatments can sometimes dry out your hair, they only happen occasionally. The process that happens everyday, drying out your hair is...exposure to the air!

Yes, something that simple can be sapping your hair of life. Think for a moment; air dries your laundry, it cracks your house paint, it chaps your lips, it ashes your skin; it’s a serious drying agent. And when you wear you hair down regularly, air dries out your hair too. The movement of your hair against your clothing can dry your ends even more; and when ends get dry, they break off.

Picture an ear of corn with the husk on it. Did you ever notice how awful the silk looks that’s hanging on the outside of husk? But if you peel the husk down, the silk is soft, shiny and in excellent condition. The only difference is that the top silk has been exposed to the air, while the silk inside the husk has not. Air can cause damage to your hair. Moisture and Oil for the Hair is a light daily application of protection against dryness that adds a gorgeous shine and allows the hair to remain clean feeling. It’s nice.


DEVELOPING A HEALTHY GROWTH PATTERN
Since the ends are the oldest part of your hair, they suffer the most from this constant exposure to air. You can end the breakage cycle and experience a healthy growth pattern by following these simple rules. They may not seem very significant at a glance, but they are the steps that restored my damaged strands to a full, healthy head of hair. Remember that you want to preserve the ends while the roots grow. Being consistent and patient every day is the key to your success. 1. KEEP YOU HAIR CLEAN AND CONDITION IT, CONDITION IT, CONDITION IT!

If you wash your hair less frequently than 7 days or so, the scalp may get irritated and begin to itch. And when dirt begins to build up on the strand, it slows down the brush or comb, creating a pulling affect, which can snap hairs. You’ll find that Deep conditioning at least once a week make the hair easy to comb through when the hair is wet and when it’s dry.

2. WEAR YOUR HAIR IN PROTECTIVE HAIR STYLES AS OFTEN AS YOU CAN

This means wearing your hair ‘up’ in a style that tucks the ends safely underneath the hair so the ends are not seen. Remember the ear of corn with the husk again: protective styling is like taking the dry tip of the silk, and tucking it safely underneath the husk, out of the air. But if your ends go up dry, they’ll come down dry.

My favorite protective styles are the French twist and the chignon (or bun). You should not be able to see the ends at all. A ponytail, for example, wouldn't be considered a protective style because the ends are moving and still exposed to the air. You can really have fun creating these styles, using all types of accessories and enhancing your look with simple things like earrings or a newly tweezed set of eyebrows! You can make your look clean or really do yourself up. Have fun with it.

If your hair is short, you’re going to protect your hair from the air and from too much movement while you sleep. 3. SLEEP WITH YOUR HAIR PROTECTED AT NIGHT.

I know, I know! This is where I lose a lot of you ladies who have spouses; but hear me out. It's important at night, again, to take your hair out of the air and especially to eliminate all of the rubbing that takes place while you sleep. This rubbing can be bad news in the morning when your ends are frayed beyond recognition. A good thing about wrapping (or tying up) your hair at night is that it requires less styling the next day (sometimes you’re actually ready to go with just a quick stroke of the brush).

If you’ve read my brochure, you've heard me say that wrapping your head at night need not be grounds for divorce. You can use a fine meshed hair net over your bun or over your hair if it’s short, and then apply a wide cotton spandex headband around the hairline. It looks similar to a regular daytime look. If you’re still not loving the idea, my next best advice is to put it on late and take it off early! By the way, just sleeping on a silk pillowcase won’t help if your hair is still moving around and exposed to the air.

If your wrap comes off, and at some point it probably will (especially if your hair is short), half a night’s protection is better than none. But this simple, traditional routine of tying the hair up at night is still a very helpful method in maintaining your hair. 4. GET YOUR HAIR TRIMMED EVERY 6 TO 8 WEEKS.

If you’re trying to grow your hair out, this is where protective styles really pay off. Your hair grows ¼ to ½ inch per month, so in 8 weeks it could have grown 1 inch. Let’s say you started your routine with a real good trim. And now, 8 weeks later it’s time for another trim. If you’ve been conditioning, using your Constant Care for Ends and wearing your protective styles everyday, your ends shouldn’t even be split. So now you’re going to trim your hair before it splits. You only have to trim ¼ inch or so because it’s not split. That means you have ¾ of an inch of new length. You put those brand-new, freshly trimmed ends right back up into your protective styles and next month you’ll accumulate another ¾ of an inch - that’s 1 and ½ inches of real length in four months!

Now let’s look at what happens if you don’t wear protective styles. You wear your hair down, it rubs all day against your shoulders and the air makes it dry - but it looks good, I understand.

But here’s what happens: you go to get your trim in 8 weeks and you really only want the hairdresser to take ¼ of an inch off. But she sees damage and split ends as far up as an 1 and ½ inches. She cuts the damage off and, even though your hair has grown an inch, you just lost ½ inch in length because the constant damage caused by your ends being exposed DICTATED TO YOU how much hair had to be cut. With protective styling, you trim before your hair splits and you determine how much you trim off. Every little quarter of an inch is a victory.

Some women have asked me, "What is the point of having long hair if you have to wear it up?" The point of wearing it up is to have long hair. Once a young lady asked, "About how long would it take for me to grow my hair really long?" I told her it would take about 4 years with regular trimmings. She said "Four years? I’ll be 34 years old in four years, that’s too much time!" I had to remind her that she was going to be 34 years old in four years anyway; might as well get there having fabulous hair.

If you have short hair, don’t let all this talk of protective styles disturb you. If you keep your hair cut short and trimmed on a regular basis, it’s automatically healthier by being trimmed more often. It's when hair becomes long that the protective styles become necessary. If you’re not growing your hair long, but are keeping it trimmed and styled at a fixed length, then you can get away with wearing it down more often than the person who is on a mission to grow long hair.

BEFORE WANAKEE'S HHJ

AFTER HER 4 YEAR JOURNEY