The Quidad Double Detangler

Purchasing this comb was best $28.00 I could have ever spent! I know what you are saying..." you paid that much for a comb??" BELIEVE me when I say it was worth every penny.  I originally purchased this comb as a Christmas gift for my lil sis ( she has mounds of natural thick hair).  I decided to test it out on my texlaxed/ relaxed hair at 3 months post and I was amazed at how much faster it was to detangle my mane with less snags, tears and hair in the comb.  My detangling time is cut down in half. I HIGHLY recommend this comb for those with curly hair, natural hair, and those relaxed sistas with new growth that is a struggle to get through. Its going to be invaluable to you when you are stretching in between relaxers... and the comb is so sturdy it should literally last forever.  I have no idea how adding and extra side of wide tooth combs aid so much in the detangling process, but I am so grateful someone came up with the technology to produce this comb. I purchased my Quidad comb at my local Sephora store, but you can also purchase online through their website Sehpora.com or thorough Amazon.com

HAIR JOURNEY 1 YEAR IN

WHAT A DIFFERENCE A YEAR MAKES!

MAY 2010 - BEFORE THE JOURNEY

JUNE 2011 - 1 YEAR INTO MY HAIR JOURNEY 

Hair Steaming

Now that I have been on my journey for a full year, I am really interested increasing my hair health in new ways. I love to deep condition my hair and credit it as a very key component in my healthy hair regimen. Now I am so excited to be adding a hair steamer to my hair care regimen. Hair steaming is a method of deep conditioning that uses a hair steamer (there are both salon and at home versions for sale) to swell and open the hair shaft for deeper penetration of moisture and conditioners into the hair structure. It is said that hair steaming will deliver greater levels of moisture into the hair cuticle because it uses steam or wet heat, rather than the dry heat from a normal hooded dryer method.  Incorporating this level of moisture into the hair helps to stop dryness and breakage. Steaming is great if you are experiencing drying & falling hair due to chemical abuse. It will also open up the hair follicles to promote faster hair growth.

After researching different hair steaming units, I decided on the Huetiful Hair and Facial Steamer. I made the decision to purchase this one because it was smaller than the large salon versions and more affordable. It actually had really great user reviews and youtube reviews. I can't wait to try it out! I plan to steam once a week for about 20- 30 minutes with a deep conditioner and oils.

New Carol's Daughter Monoi Challenge!

I don't know about you all, but I am over excited about the new CD line "Monoi", which features three new products that promise longer, stronger hair. Now I don't get to heavy into the promises product make but I do get amped when it comes to a great product ingredient list and the offering of something different. What is Monoi oil you ask? Well it is actually an oil that Tahitian's have used for many centuries to moisturize and maintain the beauty and health of their hair and skin. Monoi oil is a natural beauty product based on two unique ingredients, Tiare Tahiti (Gardenia Tahitensis) and refined Polynesian Coconut oil (Cocos Nucifera). Monoi is stabilized with Vitamin E.

You guys know I LOVE coconut oil and can't live without it. The results and benefits my hair has garnered with its use are pretty evident if you read my blog on a regular basis. I was wondering WHEN Lisa Price would finally include a line that would feature Coconut oil as its main ingredient....and now she goes and gives us something that I think will be GREAT. This line not only includes Monoi oil but also bamboo water which is the strongest plant on our planet. This will help to reinforce the hair's structure and give it longer life. Not to mention it features the use of shea butter, silk protiens and pro vitamin B-5. I love what this line will bring to Carol's daughter brand. I have decided to start my first challenge. So to help get me to BSL by my June 30th B-day, I will use the CD Monoi Repairing mask as my weekly deep treatment, the Monoi shampoo & conditioner as my hair care staples for the next 2 months. Hopefully CD delivers on the promise of stronger longer hair! I will keep you all updated and deliver full reviews once I have finished using a full container of the products.

Ingredients List


Monoi Repairing Shampoo: Water (Aqua), Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-150 Distearate, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Decyl Glucoside, Sodium Lauroyl Oat Amino Acids, Coconut Oil Glycereth-8 Esters, Shea Butter Glycereth-8 Esters, Polyglyceryl-3 Laurate, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Gardenia Tahitensis Flower Extract, Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil, Phyllostachis Bambusoides Juice, Moringa Pterygosperma Seed Extract, Helianthus Annuus(Sunflower) Seed Extract, Hydrolyzed Hibiscus Esculentus Extract, Cassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide, Hydrolyzed Silk, Panthenol (Pro-vitamin B5), Glycerin, Glycol Distearate, Cinnamidopropyltrimonium Chloride, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Quaternium-91, PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate, Disodium EDTA, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol, Methylisothiazolinone, Fragrance (Parfum)

Monoi Repairing Hair Mask: Water (Aqua), Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Glycerin, Cetyl Esters, Dimethicone, Fragrance (Parfum), Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oiol, Gardenia Tahitensis Flower Extract, Cyclopentasiloxane, Isohexadecane, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil, Moringa Pterygosperma Seed Oil, Phyllostachis Bambusoides Juice, Hydrolyzed Hibiscus Esculentus Extract, Cassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccaride, Helianthus Annus (Sunflower) Seed Extrac, Panthenol (Pro-vitamin B5), Cetrimonium Chloride, Cetrimonium Phenyl Trimethicone, Dimethiconol, Octyldodecanol, Ceteareth-20, Quarternium-91, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Methylisothiazolinone

Monoi Repairing Conditioner:Water (Aqua), Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Glycerin, Isododecane, Fragrance (Parfum), Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Isohexadecane, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Gardenia Tahitensis Flower Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil, Moringa Pterygosperma Seed Oil, Phyllostachis Bambusoides Juice, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Hydrolyzed Silk, Hydrolyzed Hibiscus Esculentus Extract, Cassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Extract, Panthenol (Pro-vitamin B5), Cetrimonium Chloride, Cetrimonium Methosulfate, Cinnamidopropyltrimonium Chloride, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Octyldodecanol, Ceteareth-20, Quaternium-91, Citric Acid, Tetrasodium EDTA, Sorbic Acid, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol, Methylisothiazolinone

Because It's Ladies Night!

I am finally on the first break from school in a over a year...YES! Now I get to devote time to my family and friends for once.  Also I have time to blog much more often with you all! I know I said I would not flat it again until June but...I could resist this time lol. I am only 3 weeks post and I am going out with my sisters for a night on the town, so I want to show off my new length and look as fly as possible... Above are the pics of the night out and below is tonight's regimen.

Pre Poo was done  overnight with EVOO and Lisa's Hair Elixir by Carol's Daughter  ( CD)

DC on dry hair for 30 minutes (short on time) with Curl Ecstasy Deep Conditioner by Curls

Shampoo once with Tui Shampoo another CD fav.

Final Rinse with Suave's Shea & Almond Conditioner

Leave Ins applied Jane Carter Solution and Nirobi Setting Foam and a light spray of Shea Moisture's Coconut and Hibiscus Moisture Sray

Apply my Paul Mitchell Soft Style Heat protector to damp hair then dry for 40 mins under hooded dryer and flat ironed with my FHI.

** Overall my hair came out a little flat and blah...I think I have forgotten how to style it down lol!  I will for sure switch back to my Mizani setting foam as my hair is much softer and primed for the flat iron when I used this. I was going for strait and sleek but did not build any volume at the root like I normally would, so my hair looks thinner than it usually would. 

Three Months Post Length Check

I am now 3 months post relaxer and I soooo ready to get my PhytoRelaxer next week. Not because my roots are hard to manage but because I am excited to see the new length!

My new growth has been very manageable this go round as I am consistent with my regimen. I CANNOT believe I am close to bra strap length already!!! Did not expect to get close until May/June. So reaching my June 30th 2011 goal of BSL is pretty much in the bag...YES!!! :)  I had no idea I was getting so close and retaining so much length until I did a mini length check last night. Posted are pics of my luscious new growth and latest LC. 

New Growth 3 months Post Relaxer

Deep Conditioning Series: Part One

Deep conditioning is very important for all hair types...if you are relaxed/texlaxed it is critical! Deep conditioning is the ultimate and needed nutrition for hair health.  Each strand of hair has 3 layers. Deep conditioning affects the outer layer which is called the cuticle. The cuticle resembles shingles on a roof. They overlap each other, and should lay down flat. When your hair becomes dry and damaged, these shingles will stand up away from the hair shaft. This is what gives hair the dull, frizzy look. Deep conditioning the proper way and with the right products will help to smooth the cuticle, making the shingles (hair cuticles) lay down again, giving your hair a smoother, shinier, healthier appearance.


Deep conditioning is different from applying a simple rinse out conditioner with only a couple of ingredients.  It is usually done with a thicker heavier conditioner and left on for a period of time with heat.  This restores oils and moisture deep with in the hair shaft that we loose with exposure to natural elements, washing and styling.  If you are missing this step from your hair care regimen, please add it today!  I cannot stress enough the importance of this to anyone who wishes to maintain longer healthier hair.


I have been deep conditioning every week (sometimes twice a week) without fail for the time I have been on my journey.  It keeps breakage to a minimum, my hair is no longer dry frizzy and porous, it is stronger than ever, and much more manageable.  Split ends are few and far in between and my hair has excellent elasticity.  It is also very important to follow up any protein treatments with deep conditioning to counteract the stiffness or dryness and give the hair its elasticity back. There are tons of options out there for you to choose from.  Just make sure you read the labels before purchasing. Find out what your hair needs and what is best for your hair type.  I prefer deep conditioners with a natural and longer list of ingredients. Others may prefer them with fewer ingredients. Check out my second post to this series for a how to for properly deep condition you hair.

Deep Conditioning Series: Part Two

HOW TO PROPERLY DEEP CONDITION YOUR HAIR

What you will need:

Time — About an hour. I usually deep condition in the late evening or weekends when I don’t have to be anywhere anytime soon. Sometimes I will leave it on my hair for hours after the heating process when I want to give my hair some extra pampering. 

A Deep Conditioner — I really believe that you should invest in a high-quality (not necessarily expensive) deep conditioner. There are so many to choose from. Visit www.curlmart.com for a range of great and hard to find DCs. I personally love, love, love Spiral Solution's Deeply Decadent Conditioner, and Shea Moisture's Deep Treatment Mask , which I also love. Drug Store Brands like Suave’s Professional Shea Butter & Almond Conditioner and Suave Professional's Humectant are absolutely awesome in my opinion if you working on a tight budget.

Plastic Cap 

Heating Unit — Hooded Dryer, Hot towel, Heating Pad, Blow Dryer Cap, or a Micro Heat Wrap

How to Deep Condition your hair:

1. If you wish, you can wash your hair first...or like many you can apply to dry hair. I always detangle then braid my hair in 4 sections, before I wash and DC. This minimizes tangles drastically, reduce combing, and I see much less hair in the comb with this method. Saves my precious hair and time!

2. Generously apply your deep conditioner to the hair, and focus on the ends ( this is the oldest and driest part of the hair. Work through with your fingers, or use a wide toothed comb to work through your hair. I would also encourage you to add additional oils to your DC...Extra virgin Coconut Oil, Extra Virgin Olive oil and Jamaican black Castor oil are among my favs. To simplify I have been using Carol's Daughter's Lisa's Hair Elixir to incorporate several different oils in one go. This really enhances the deep conditioning for me.

3. Place the shower cap over hair, and then put the heating device on your head for at least a full 15 minutes ( I personally never go under  30 mins...that's why setting aside time for a DC is critical for me). You need to at minimum allow 15 minutes so the hair cuticle can open fully, and let the conditioner completely permeate and feed your hair. After 15+ minutes or longer, (you could leave the conditioner on at this point, even all night after heating), take off your cap and let your hair cool for at least 5 minutes. This allows your hair shaft to close again.

4. Rinse hair with warm water until about 80% of the conditioner is rinsed out.

5. Do a final rinse with the coldest water you can stand. This is important to seal your hair shaft and get all the benefits of your deep conditioning treatment.

6. Apply a leave-on conditioner (and oil to seal  if you choose) and allow your hair to air dry.

7. Do not wash your hair the next day. Give your hair a break after a deep conditioning for at least 24 hours. 

I suggest deep conditioning at least once weekly. Sunday evenings are the best for me. By doing this, your hair can become healthier, stronger and shinier. It will regain its softness and elasticity. Moisture-robbed hair is more subject to breakage and unmanageability. Remember, deep conditioning regularly is a key step in retaining your length.

Regimen Updated

Below is my updated Regimen with a list of products I alternate for each step. Really as long as you are putting moisture into the hair daily, sealing with an oil to lock that moisture in, and keeping your scalp clean, you can use what ever products work best for their hair (But please avoid mineral oils,  and petroleum based products as they can suffocate the hair and scalp, lock out moisture and inhibit hair growth). You can use an wide range of products to alternate, or you can choose a minimal amount of products. They key is doing what works best for your hair. If you don't have time to cleanse often, you may not want to apply too many oils and other products as often to avoid build up.  On the other hand if you clean your hair two or three times a weeks because you have a naturally oily scalp, then extra conditioning and keeping oils on those ends is key to avoiding breakage. I have also posted more before and after shots of my 6 month hair journey update. Stay consistant in your regimen and you WILL see results! Happy growing :)

- Wash with a natural Shampoo one a week (Sunday): Bee Mine Ayurvedic Bar or Shea Moisture's Coconut & Hibiscus. 

- Co Wash Once a week (Wed) with a moisturizing conditioner: Suave Professionals Shea & Almond Conditioner, Herbal Essences Hello Hydration, or Bee Mine Bee Lovely Moisturizing Conditioner  

-Deep Condition 2x a week (Wed & Sun after my co wash or shampoo): Spiral Solutions Deeply Decadent Conditioning treatment, Shea Moisture's Deep Conditioning mask, Darcy's Botanicals Deep Conditioning Mask

- Light/ Medium Protein Treatments done as needed, or once a month minimum: Aphogee 2 minute reconstructor ( NOT the 2 step hard protein treatment), Coppola's Keratin Deep Conditioning treatment, or Spiral Solutions Repairing Protein treatment. 

- Leave Ins: Jane Carter Solution Revitalizing Leave In conditioner ( Spritz 2x a day to keep moisture on my strands.

- I use a light protein leave in spray (Spiral Solutions Strength & shine or Aphogee Green Tea & Keratin Leave In...applied after my shampoos once a week

- Seal hair nightly with natural oils to lock in moisture from conditioners: Carol's Daughter Hair Balm (my new Fav), Extra Virgin Coconut oil, Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Carol's Daughter's Lisa's Hair Elixer or Jamaician Black Castor Oil.

- Clarify once a month to remove build up: Bee Mine Purity Bar, Giovanni 50:50 Hydrating Clarifying Shampoo.

- I air dry 99% of the time and wear my hair in a bun or a phony pony.  I will be on a no heat diet and wear protective styles until i have reached Bra strap length. 

- Trim/ Dust about 1/4 inch after every relaxer.  I don't require a lot of trimming because I have worn a protective bun or phony pony for everyday of my journey.  I have used heat only once the past 6 months and this has allowed me to retain so much length and have very little breakage.

More Update Pics 6 months of Progress

June 2010

December 2010  (sorry, I did not comb out hair before this shot)

June 2010

December 2010

Six Month Hair Journey Update

JUNE 2010

DECEMBER 2010

I cannot believe how much time has passed since I started my HHJ.  I started in May/June 2010 and here we are in December. I have crossed the six month marker and now its time to witness the RESULTS!  I am sure many of you will start your journey and doubt that you are really getting the results you need to reach your hair length goals.  This why I encourage you to track your journey with photographs!  You can see and compare your progress, and the effectiveness of your regimen. Use your progress photos as a guide, motivation, and diary for your HHJ. If you dont see the proof in your photos, its possible you need to revisit the components of your regimen, and look at what products you are using.  It is so important to listen to your hair and give it what it needs. For the past month or so, I began to experience some breakage. In my head I was convinced I was using enough moisture, but the winter weather was telling my hair otherwise, so I tweaked a few things, and now the breakage is at bay.  At one point I began to skip my second deep conditioning treatment some weeks, skip sealing and only spritz moisture on to my hair and these small changes, produced negative results (breakage).  So I back tracked figured out what I was doing differently and went back to what worked best for my hair. The diligence of following my regimen is paying off! I am officially Armpit length :) Next stop...Bra strap length by my B-day June 30, 2011

                                              

Hair Care Ingredients

It is so important to learn what impact different product ingredients can have on your hair. Though Products DO NOT grow your hair, they are a very important part in retaining your length. Picking up a bottle of shampoo and not really understanding what the ingredients are, can make your hair journey a bit more confusing. Listed below are a ton of ingredients you may find in hair products along with their use.

Acetamide MEA - Water soluble conditioning agent compatible with anionic and nonanionic systems as opposed to quaternary surfactants compatible only with cationics, adds shine.

Alcohol - A general term for organic ingredients that contain the OH (hydroxyl) group. Alcohols differ substantially in their properties ranging from water soluble solvents like isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol, ethyl alcohol (used by breweries, the only drinkable alcohol) through moisturizing agents like glycerine or propylene glycol to fatty alcohols like cetyl alcohol and sugars (multi alcohols).

Algae Extract - Extracted from seaweed and pondscum, rich in minerals, algae extract is claimed to prevent wrinkles, very moisturizing.

Algal Polysaccharides - Extract from red marine algae gathered off the Hawaiian coast known for its moisturizing potential and lubricity.

Allantoin - Water soluble crystal known for its ability to help heal wounds and skin ulcers and to stimulate the growth of healthy tissue.

AMP (Aminoethyl Propanol) - An organic pH adjuster used to maximize the effects of styling products.

Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate - The ammonium salt of lauryl sulfate derived from the natural coconut alcohols, it is a mild anionic surfactant widely used at acidic (mild) pH values.

Amphoteric Surfactants - Those in which the active molecule bears both positive and negative charges. Their properties depend upon th pH of the system and they may behave like anionics or cationics. Some of the finest amphoterics are used in shampoo systems formulated for dry or chemically treated hair due to their mildness and light conditioning properties.

Annatto Extract - A food grade vegetable dye from a tropical tree, yellow to orange.

Annionic Surfactants - Those in which the active molecule bears a negative electric charge. These surfactants are primarily used as cleansing agents in relatively mild shampoos for oily or normal to oily hair


Beet Extract - Extract from the stem base of the beet used for its reddish color.

Benzophenone - 3 and 4 - A sunscreen that blocks UV - A rays.

Beta Carotene - Found in all plant and many animal tissues, beta carotene is extracted as red crystals or crystalline powder, used as coloring in cosmetics. Also used in the manufacture of Vitamin A. Used also as antioxidant.

Biotin - A naturally occurring vitamin H. Some studies show that it has a positive effect on hair growth when taken internally.

Boric Acid - An inorganic acid and mild antiseptic, and preservative.

Butylene Glycol - Organic humectant similar to propylene glycol.

Caramel - Used as a coloring in cosmetics and a soothing agent in lotions. Produced by heating sugar or glucose and adding small amounts of alkali or a trace mineral acid during heating.

Carbomer 940 - An organic gelling agent.

Carrageenan - Natural thickening agent.

Cationic Surfactants - Those in which the active molecule bears a positive charge. These sufactants usually have strong conditioning properties and are used in conditioners, moisturizing treatments and paks. Cationics often have antimicrobial properties (germicides).

Ceteareth - 5 - An emollient and emulsifier. See Cetyl Alcohol.

Cetearyl Alcohol - A mixture of fatty alcohols derived from coconut oil consisting predominantly of cetyl and stearyl alcohols. Used as emollients, thickeners and emulsion stabilizers.

Ceteth - 2 - A polyethylene glycol derivative of cetyl alcohol. Water soluble. Emollient and conditioning agent and emulsifier.

Ceteth - 20 - See ceteth - 2.

Cetrimonium Bromide - A cationic conditioning agent and antiseptic widely used in the pharmaceutical industry. Due to its high cost, it is rarely used in cosmetics. Adds shine.

Cetrimonium Chloride - Quaternary conditioning agent, similar to cetrimonium bromide, but more suitable for water systems.

Cetyl Alcohol - A natural fatty alcohol derived from coconut oil widely used as an emollient and stabilizing agent in conditioning and moisturizing treatments (emulsions).

Cetyldimonium Chloride - Used often as a conditioning agent, compatible with sufactants, often used in shampoos.

Chloroxylenol - A crystalline, water soluble substance used as an antiseptic, germicide and fungicide. Penetrates skin. No known toxicity in humans when diluted below 20%.

Citric Acid - A natural, edible organic acid used to adjust pH, one of the natural hydroxy acids derived from citrus fruits.

Citric Acid USP - (see Citric Acid)

Cocamide DEA - Shampoo thickener and foam stabilizer derived from coconut fatty acids. Also assists in removal of fatty soils.

Cocamide MEA (see Cocamide DEA) - Mono - amide (MEA) as opposed to diamide (DEA).

Cocamidopropyl Betaine - An amphoteric surfactant used as a cleanser. Known for its mild conditioning properties. Derived from coconut fatty acids.

Coco Betaine - (see Cocamidopropyl Betaine)

Cyclomethicone - A silicone derivative. Adds luster and sheen.

DEA Oleth - 3 Phosphate - An emulsifier that prevents separation of product. Adds shine.

DEA Oleth - 10 Phosphate - An emulsifier derived from oleic acid, an unsaturated fatty acid.

Deionized Water - Water purified by deionization technique based on removal of highly active ions especially positively charged cations like calcium (Ca++) magnesium(MG++) and iron (Fe++) and (Fe+++).

Diazolidinyl - A cosmetic preservative.

Dicetyldimonium Chloride - (see Cetyldimonium Chloride)

Dimethicone - A silicone derivative. Adds luster and sheen.

Dimethicone Copolyol - Same as above and is water soluble.

Dimethyl Lauramine Isostearate - Conditioning and emulsifying agent.

Dimethyl Stearamine - Conditioning and emulsifying agent.

EDTA ( Ethylene Diamine Tetra Acetic Acid) - A sequestering (chelating) agent with unique properties of "neutralizing" trace metals (like calcium, iron and magnesium salts, etc.) and other deposits on hair.

Ethyl Ester PVM/MA Copolymer - Humidity resistant, non - tacky polymer.

Ethoxydiglycol - Viscosity decreasing agent.

Essential Oils - Used for fragrance, as an antiseptic, germicide and a natural preservative. Derived from natural plant oil.

Glyceryl Monstearate - An emollient, emulsifier derived from natural stearic acid and glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate - An emulsifier.

Glycolic Acid - Derived from sugar cane juice, used to adjust pH in products and as an exfoliant and moisturizer.

Glycol Stearate - See Glyceryl Monostearate.

Grapeskin Extract - The extract of the pulp of Vitis Vinifera, used as a coloring.

Green Tea Extract - A natural extract of Japanese green tea that has antioxidant and antibacterial properties.

Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride - Naturally derived from Guar tree, cationic conditioning agent used frequently in shampoos.

Hyaluronic Acid - It is the most effective moisturizing agent known to science today. It holds 500 times its own weight of water. This spectacular humectant is derived by bacterial fermentation. It is effective in concentrations as low as 20 ppm ( parts per million).

Hydrolyzed Human Hair Keratin Protein - Protein derived from human hair by enzymatic/acidic hydrolyzation.

Hydroxyethel Cellulose - Used as a thickener in creams and lotions.

Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose - Fibrous substance derived from the chief part of the cell walls of plants. Used as thickener and to give products uniform consistency and body.

Isobutane - Naturally occurring gas.

Isopropanol - An organic solvent of alcohol family. Used to solubilize resins and polymers. Also found in hair colors to dissolve the oxidation dyes.

Isopropyl Alcohol (Isopropanol) - An organic solvent of the alcohol family. Used to solubilize resins and polymers. Also found in hair colors to dissolve the oxidation dyes.

Isopropyl Palmitate - An ester of palmitic acid from coconut oil used to impart silkiness to the skin and hair.

Jojoba Oil - Partially unsaturated Jojoba Oil derived directly from the jojoba bean. Unbleached and chemically unchanged, it is used as a lubricant and sebum emulsifier.

Lactamide MEA - (see Acetamide MEA)

Lactic Acid - A natural, mild organic acid prepared by fermentation. Normally present in blood, sour milk, sauerkraut, pickles, and other food products made by bacterial fermentation. Used in cosmetics to adjust acid/alkali balance. Lactic acid is a primary component in the skin's natural buffer system.

Laureth - 3 - It is the polyethylene glycol ether of Lauryl Alcohol, principal alcohol of coconut oil. It's modified to give it a "water loving" character. Used as an emollient and emulsifier.

Lecithin - From the Greek meaning "egg yolk". Natural antioxidant, emollient and emulsifier used in a variety of cosmetics. Egg yolk is 8 - 9% lecithin.

Lineolamido Propyl Ethydimonium Ethosulfate - Antistatic and hair conditioning agent

Magnesium Citrate - Magnesium salt of citric acid.

Methacryloyl Ethyl Betaine Methacrylates Copolymer - Part of cationic system. A fixative that is water soluble if washed within 48 hours after application. Used for stiffness and high gloss in hairsprays.

Methylchloroisthiazolinone - A preservative used in shampoos to replace formaldehyde.

Methylisothiazolinone - Used with above as a preservative in shampoos to replace formaldehyde.

Methyl Paraben - Preservative derived from benzoic acid. Usually used in emulsions in conjunction with propyl paraben. It's non - toxic and approved for use in foods. It is effective against a wide range of bacteria and fungi. Contrary to popular belief, it is not a wax. Recommended concentration in cosmetics 0.2 - 0.3%.

Myristalkonium Chloride - Derived from fatty acids, it has anti - static and moisturizing properties.

Niacinamide - Mild scalp stimulant with Vitamin B. Also used as a synergizing agent.

Nonionic Surfactants - Those in which the active molecule has no electric charge. Their properties vary widely, from very harsh cleansers (often found in commercial shampoos and rug cleaners) to coating and fiber softening agents found in balsams and rinses.

Nonoxynol 12 - Used as a non ionic surface active agent and as a dispersing agent.

O - Cresol - White to reddish crystals used in the manufacture of dyes.

Octylacrylamide Acrylate Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer - Part of cationic system. A fixative that is water soluble if washed within 48 hours after application. Used for stiffness and high gloss in hair sprays.

Octylacrylamide Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer - (see Octylacrylamide Acrylate Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer)

Octyl Methoxycinnamate - A sunscreen that blocks UV - B rays that is derived from cinnamic acid.

Oleth 20 - Organic perfume stabilizer, derived from unsaturated fatty acids.

Orange Peel Extract - Extract from "green" variety of oranges, very rich in natural elements. Used for color.

Palm Kernelamide DEA and MEA - A mixture of ethanolamides of the fatty acids derived from palm kernel oil. Used as a conditioning agent and thickener for shampoos.

Panthenol - Member of the Vitamin B complex family used as a hair thickener and conditioning agent. During oxidation, it is converted to Vitamin B - 5 (pantheonic acid).

PEG - 100 Stearate - An emulsifier.

Pentacrythritol Tetra Caprate/Caprylate - Emulsifier derived from caprylic acid. Vegetable source.

Phenyl Trimethicone - Water resistant silicone, adds shine and flexibility.

Polyquaternium 11 - A fixative with anti - bacterial properties. Adds hold and sheen in styling tools.

Polysorbate 20 - A viscous, oily, water soluble liquid used to stabilize perfumes in water based preparations (like shampoos, etc.)

Polysorbate 80 - A viscous liquid used to emulsify oils.

Potassium Sorbate - A mild food grade preservative found in cheese, wine, etc.

PPG 2 Isodeceth 12 - An organic solubilixer of perfume oils and emulsifier.

Pristane - - A saturated hydrocarbon found in natural oils

Propane - A natural propellant.

Propyl Paraben - A food grade preservative - see Methyl Paraben. It is often confused with paraffin.

Propylene Glycol Dicocoate - A mixture of propylene glycol esters of coconut fatty acids. Aids in removing unwanted "build - up" from hair.

PVM/MA Copolymer - A water soluble fixative used in hairsprays and styling tools.

PVP/VA Copolymer - A water soluble fixative used in hairsprays.

Pyroxidine HCL - Vitamin B6 used as a texturizer.

Quaternium 15 - A water soluble anti microbial agent active against bacteria.

Salicylic Acid - Broad spectrum antibacterial and fungicidal agent. Used externally as an antimicrobial/anti - acne agent and in anti - dandruff shampoos as the active agent. It is found in nature in several plants, notably in sweet birch bark and wintergreen leaves (commercial sources are synthetic).

SD 40 Alcohol - Often listed as SDA40. It belongs to the alcohol family and is the only drinkable one specially denatured by adding bittering agents to make it not suitable for human consumption. It is used primarily in hair spray as a resin solvent.

SD Alcohol 40B - Same as above with different denaturants

Shea Butter - The natural fat obtained from the fruit of the Karite tree. Used as a replacement for lanolin.

Sodium Cetyl Sulfate - A derivative of saturated fatty alcohol. Water soluble.

Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate - An organic preservative derived from the amino acid glycine.

Sodium Laureth Sulfate - A derivative of polyethylene glycol and lauryl alcohol. It is much milder than sodium lauryl sulfate. It is also recommended for use in conjunction with other surfactants.

Sodium Myristoyl Sarcosinate - Very mild amphoteric surfactant. Excellent, very mild cleansing agent with light conditioning properties.

Sodium PCA - A powerful humectant (moisturizing agent). This natural moisturizer is found in stratum corneum and is part of the natural Moisturizing Factor of skin.

Sodium Thiosulfate - An inorganic salt, very reactive. Used to neutralize chlorine and other halogens.

Sorbitol - Humectant, moisturizing agent and lubricant. It has similar properties to glycerin but is more compatible to hair.

Stearalkonium Chloride - Cationic surfactant that has excellent substantivity to hair's keratin protein. Reduces static electricity by neutralizing electrical charges on hair. Good conditioning agent.

Stearamidopropyl Dimethyamine - A water soluble derivative of stearic acid. Possesses unique properties of closing hair cuticles over a wide range of pH.

Steareth 21 - The polyethelyne glycol ethers of stearyl alcohol. The number indicates the degree of liquidity from 4 (thin) to 100 (solid). An emulsifier.

Stearic Acid - An organic fatty acid used as the basic ingredient to create O/W (oil in water) emulsions in conjunction with TEA. These emulsions are water soluble with good penetrating properties.

Stearyl Alcohol - A natural fatty alcohol, very similar to cetyl alcohol. (see cetyl alcohol) Derived from coconut oil.

Surfactant - Surface agents that have many cosmetic uses. For example, cleansers, wetting agents, emulsifiers, solubizers, conditioning agents and foam stabilizers.

TEA Laureth Sulfate - A triethanolamine salt of ethoxylated lauryl sulfate, an anionic surfactant compatible with amphoterics. A very effective, yet very mild, cleansing agent.

TEA Lauryl Sulfate - (similar to TEA Laureth Sulfate)

Tetrasodium EDTA - Same as sodium EDTA or Na - EDTA. It's a chelating agent (sequestrant) that reacts with sodium, calcium and magnesium salts found in hard water and "makes" them water soluble. Reduces build - up.

Triethanolamine (TEA) - An alkanomine used as part of an emulsion system in conjunction with organic acids like stearic acid. Also serves as a softener in hair spray.

Triethyl Citrate - Derived from citric acid. It gives pliability to fixatives.

Tyrosine - A building block of protein, tyrosine is the amino acid in hair that color adheres to.

Vinyl Acetate Crotonic Acid Neodecanate Copolymer - Hairspray fixative

Xanthan Gum - A highly molecular polysaccharide gum used as a thickener.

HERBAL GLOSSARY

Alfalfa - High in vitamin K, A, D and minerals. Good for conditioning and strengthening the hair.

Althea Root - Originally used to provide marshmallow with its pillowy consistency. Althea is an extract that softens and soothes.

Apricot - A skin softener and toner, apricot acts as a brilliantine adding sheen without an oily film.

Birch Bark - American Indians used birch bark extensively for many purposes, it acts as a tonic, refreshes the skin and has anti - inflammatory qualities.

Bladderwrack - Beneficial to scalp.

Borage - An emollient herb that has a cooling and soothing effect, allaying irritation.

Chamomile - A daisy - like plant. Extract from its white and yellow heads impart luster. An essential source of vital minerals for hair.

Cinnamon Bark - One of the spices that spurred world exploration, cinnamon bark is a natural astringent known to suspend excess oil on oily skin or scalp.

Clove - An antiseptic, flavoring and stimulant. It is up to 85% eugenol - regarded as an excellent water absorber.

Clover Blossom - Beneficial in the treatment of acne.

Coltsfoot - A healing herb with emollient properties that is soothing to the scalp.

Comfrey Root - Comfrey Root extract is rich in allantoin, known for its ability to heal wounds and stimulate the growth of healthy tissue.

Eucalyptus - Antiseptic, cooling and stimulating, eucalyptus oil has blood stimulation properties, beneficial for the treatment of hair loss.

Horsetail - Beneficial for the treatment of acne, horsetail has a high silica content providing texture.

Lavender - Its name derived from the Latin verb "to wash" lavender is a relaxing, cleansing herb that is also a circulation stimulant.

Lemongrass - Used for sheen and cleansing. Also used as an elasticizer in hairsprays.

Lichen Extract - Highly concentrated extract of alpine linchen (usnea barbata). It is a bactericide, fungicide and is also effective against yeast. Used in deodorants, foot care products, mouth hygiene, and antimicrobial washes.

Matricaria - Also known as Chamomile

Nettle - Rich in minerals and plant hormones, nettle extract is cleansing and astringent. Used in folk medicine to stimulate hair growth, it also acts as a glossifier.

Oat - Extract of oat has cleansing and soothing properties.

Orange Flower - Used for emmoliency and to impart luster.

Parsley - Infusions of parsley are known to be cleansing and soothing also having high vitamin and mineral content.

Peppermint - Emolient herb that is astringent, stimulating, cleansing, restorative and healing.

Raspberry - Stimulating and astringent.

Rose - Rose water has been used as early as the tenth century for its cleansing and astringent benefits.

Rosemary - Very rich in natural minerals, rosemary is soothing, cleansing, stimulating and astringent. It also brightens and adds high gloss to the hair.

Safflower - Safflower oil is an unsaturated vegetable oil derived from safflower. It is used for its moisturizing and softening properties.

Sage - Calming, cleansing, soothing and astringent, sage was associated with longevity in ancient times.

Slippery Elm - Used for its emollient properties.

Sweet Almond Oil - A natural "non - oily" oil that adds sheen.

Thyme - A calming cleanser, thyme tones and refreshes while also having antiseptic benefits.

Wheat Germ Oil - An oily extract from wheat germ that is very rich in natural vitamin E.

Witch Hazel - Used as an astringent, and an aid in setting hair.

Yarrow - An extract for cleansing and astringency.

End of 14 week Stretch

Well I have been on my healthy hair journey for about 4 months now! I did get a need trim after the first month. I am so happy to report that I have not fallen off at all on my hair regimen ( it has been tweaked, fewer products lol) since the start of my May 2010 journey. I have been wearing a protective style every day,cleaning my hair 2x weekly (1 poo and 1 co wash), moisturizing and sealing twice daily, and I have noticed that I don't need a trim after almost 4 months! This is major!! Normally my hair breaks so much that I am in big need of another trim after about a month. My hair is almost as even as they day I had it cut. I am completing my 14 week stretch now, and plan to self relax with my PhytoRelaxer on September 25, 2010. I will do a dusting, not a full trim and pull out my trusty length check shirt to measure growth. I did a check about 2 months ago, and I was right at the #1 line. Hopefully I will be at the #2 once I relax. Will aim for a 16 week stretch next go round. I am soooo happy I embarked on this journey.

I Wanna Be Like Wanakee

I am again so excited about my HHJ. I am on the computer day and night trying to educate myself on the best ways to care for my relaxed hair and get it to my longest lengths. I wanted to take the time out to pay homage to one of the pioneers of black hair health and protective styling, Wanakee Pugh. I remember seeing pictures in Essence magazine of Wanakee when I was a young girl, and a myriad of thoughts would enter my head. Her beautiful hair looked simply unattainable or I thought it must be a weave...or I even thought, well her name is Wanakee, she must be half Native American with hair like that lol. In the end I would just feel like my hair was inferior. I thought, she has always had this long luscious hair and I could never even dream about having hair this long and healthy. Well, today I feel different. Wanakee shared her countelss hours of research, personal hair journey stories and gave us the tools we need to educate ourselves on proper hair care for African American textures, and how to grow your natural, texlaxed or relaxed hair to great lengths. The information below is from Wanakee's Practical guide to hair care. I even included some pics of Wanakees hair thought her journey, as she did not have long hair until she started deep conditioning, trimming as needed and WEARING PROTECTIVE STYLES. Enjoy!


WANAKEE'S PRACTICAL GUIDE TO HAIR CARE

INTRODUCTION
If your hair has been damaged, take heart. Your hair is growing while you’re reading this. It was growing yesterday while you were having dinner, and it will be growing during your coffee break. If you’ve ever had a relaxer or hair color in your hair you know how fast it grows; seems like you need your roots touched up every time you blink! Yet women constantly say, "My hair just won’t grow. Why doesn’t it ever get any longer?"

In order for your hair to grow, it has to have what I call a ‘healthy growth pattern’. Here’s what a healthy growth pattern looks like: Grow, grow, grow, trim. Grow, grow, grow, trim. Grow, grow, grow, trim. Notice, there’s three times more growing going on here than trimming.


An ‘unhealthy growth pattern’ looks like this: Grow, break, grow, break. Grow, break, grow, break. There’s as much breakage going on here, as there is growth. You can see clearly that the hair is growing. But it’s breaking just as fast as it grows; the breakage is NEUTRALIZING the growth, making it appear as if it’s not growing at all! So what’s causing all the breakage? Dry, brittle hair.

THE MAIN REASON FOR DRY HAIR
You’ll notice that after you trim your hair, the ends seem dry again almost immediately! You’d think it was because of too much heat or blow-drying or maybe a bad perm. Although these treatments can sometimes dry out your hair, they only happen occasionally. The process that happens everyday, drying out your hair is...exposure to the air!

Yes, something that simple can be sapping your hair of life. Think for a moment; air dries your laundry, it cracks your house paint, it chaps your lips, it ashes your skin; it’s a serious drying agent. And when you wear you hair down regularly, air dries out your hair too. The movement of your hair against your clothing can dry your ends even more; and when ends get dry, they break off.

Picture an ear of corn with the husk on it. Did you ever notice how awful the silk looks that’s hanging on the outside of husk? But if you peel the husk down, the silk is soft, shiny and in excellent condition. The only difference is that the top silk has been exposed to the air, while the silk inside the husk has not. Air can cause damage to your hair. Moisture and Oil for the Hair is a light daily application of protection against dryness that adds a gorgeous shine and allows the hair to remain clean feeling. It’s nice.


DEVELOPING A HEALTHY GROWTH PATTERN
Since the ends are the oldest part of your hair, they suffer the most from this constant exposure to air. You can end the breakage cycle and experience a healthy growth pattern by following these simple rules. They may not seem very significant at a glance, but they are the steps that restored my damaged strands to a full, healthy head of hair. Remember that you want to preserve the ends while the roots grow. Being consistent and patient every day is the key to your success. 1. KEEP YOU HAIR CLEAN AND CONDITION IT, CONDITION IT, CONDITION IT!

If you wash your hair less frequently than 7 days or so, the scalp may get irritated and begin to itch. And when dirt begins to build up on the strand, it slows down the brush or comb, creating a pulling affect, which can snap hairs. You’ll find that Deep conditioning at least once a week make the hair easy to comb through when the hair is wet and when it’s dry.

2. WEAR YOUR HAIR IN PROTECTIVE HAIR STYLES AS OFTEN AS YOU CAN

This means wearing your hair ‘up’ in a style that tucks the ends safely underneath the hair so the ends are not seen. Remember the ear of corn with the husk again: protective styling is like taking the dry tip of the silk, and tucking it safely underneath the husk, out of the air. But if your ends go up dry, they’ll come down dry.

My favorite protective styles are the French twist and the chignon (or bun). You should not be able to see the ends at all. A ponytail, for example, wouldn't be considered a protective style because the ends are moving and still exposed to the air. You can really have fun creating these styles, using all types of accessories and enhancing your look with simple things like earrings or a newly tweezed set of eyebrows! You can make your look clean or really do yourself up. Have fun with it.

If your hair is short, you’re going to protect your hair from the air and from too much movement while you sleep. 3. SLEEP WITH YOUR HAIR PROTECTED AT NIGHT.

I know, I know! This is where I lose a lot of you ladies who have spouses; but hear me out. It's important at night, again, to take your hair out of the air and especially to eliminate all of the rubbing that takes place while you sleep. This rubbing can be bad news in the morning when your ends are frayed beyond recognition. A good thing about wrapping (or tying up) your hair at night is that it requires less styling the next day (sometimes you’re actually ready to go with just a quick stroke of the brush).

If you’ve read my brochure, you've heard me say that wrapping your head at night need not be grounds for divorce. You can use a fine meshed hair net over your bun or over your hair if it’s short, and then apply a wide cotton spandex headband around the hairline. It looks similar to a regular daytime look. If you’re still not loving the idea, my next best advice is to put it on late and take it off early! By the way, just sleeping on a silk pillowcase won’t help if your hair is still moving around and exposed to the air.

If your wrap comes off, and at some point it probably will (especially if your hair is short), half a night’s protection is better than none. But this simple, traditional routine of tying the hair up at night is still a very helpful method in maintaining your hair. 4. GET YOUR HAIR TRIMMED EVERY 6 TO 8 WEEKS.

If you’re trying to grow your hair out, this is where protective styles really pay off. Your hair grows ¼ to ½ inch per month, so in 8 weeks it could have grown 1 inch. Let’s say you started your routine with a real good trim. And now, 8 weeks later it’s time for another trim. If you’ve been conditioning, using your Constant Care for Ends and wearing your protective styles everyday, your ends shouldn’t even be split. So now you’re going to trim your hair before it splits. You only have to trim ¼ inch or so because it’s not split. That means you have ¾ of an inch of new length. You put those brand-new, freshly trimmed ends right back up into your protective styles and next month you’ll accumulate another ¾ of an inch - that’s 1 and ½ inches of real length in four months!

Now let’s look at what happens if you don’t wear protective styles. You wear your hair down, it rubs all day against your shoulders and the air makes it dry - but it looks good, I understand.

But here’s what happens: you go to get your trim in 8 weeks and you really only want the hairdresser to take ¼ of an inch off. But she sees damage and split ends as far up as an 1 and ½ inches. She cuts the damage off and, even though your hair has grown an inch, you just lost ½ inch in length because the constant damage caused by your ends being exposed DICTATED TO YOU how much hair had to be cut. With protective styling, you trim before your hair splits and you determine how much you trim off. Every little quarter of an inch is a victory.

Some women have asked me, "What is the point of having long hair if you have to wear it up?" The point of wearing it up is to have long hair. Once a young lady asked, "About how long would it take for me to grow my hair really long?" I told her it would take about 4 years with regular trimmings. She said "Four years? I’ll be 34 years old in four years, that’s too much time!" I had to remind her that she was going to be 34 years old in four years anyway; might as well get there having fabulous hair.

If you have short hair, don’t let all this talk of protective styles disturb you. If you keep your hair cut short and trimmed on a regular basis, it’s automatically healthier by being trimmed more often. It's when hair becomes long that the protective styles become necessary. If you’re not growing your hair long, but are keeping it trimmed and styled at a fixed length, then you can get away with wearing it down more often than the person who is on a mission to grow long hair.

BEFORE WANAKEE'S HHJ

AFTER HER 4 YEAR JOURNEY